[unabated]

I repitched mine from a 13 to a 12. Mainly because I
thought I should have more engine RPM’s before the
engine started to bellow black smoke. I have a W58 and
now can get it past 2800 rpms. Not that I ever run it
that high, mostly cruise at 22 to 2400.
alan
— Syringa <> wrote:

Patrick

Hope you had a good trip back from Bellingham! I
have been looking into the prop pull on Syringa as
you know. (This is when the vessel is under steady
steaming in forward at 1800 rpm or above) (not
backing or docking) I don’t believe the shaft is
off set (if it is it’s not much) and should not
account for that much pull. The prop may be over
pitched. I will let you know if or when I come up
with the answer.

I would like to hear from anyone who has changed
propellers or reduced the pitch.

Thanks
Don
Syringa

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[unabated]

I don’t think mine is offset either. I had my shaft
out last year to replace and I had no problems.
alan
— Robert Fine <> wrote:

Hi Rich,

I don’t think my prop is offset at all – it looks as
if I have to take the
rudder out to remove the shaft (although I’ve seen
the rudder notched on one
424). That might be the reason Pelican walks all
over the place.

This is one of the funnier threads – the net net is
that if you look like
you meant to do it, no one questions. (I meant to
find that darn rock…)

Bob

On Wed, May 7, 2008 at 11:24 AM,
<> wrote:

This is common. At full throttle, it takes two

hands to hold the wheel.

Pearson offset the propeller shaft to starboard

to allow the shaft to be

removed without having to cutoff the rudder skeg.

When combined with the

left-hand turn of the shaft, this makes the boat

turn to starboard when

under power. IMHO, Pearson should have offset the

propeller to port instead

to compensate for the prop rotation rather than

enforce it.

—
Rich Carter

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[unabated]

You mean there’s oil in that thing?

a
— Rodd Leeds <> wrote:

Quote:

30 for me.

Rodd Leeds

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[unabated]

Or do it like Sabre on their 34… REALLY offset
shaft, but you can just about parrallel park that
boat!!

— wrote:

Quote:

This is common. At full throttle, it takes two
hands to hold the wheel. Pearson offset the
propeller shaft to starboard to allow the shaft to
be removed without having to cutoff the rudder skeg.
When combined with the left-hand turn of the shaft,
this makes the boat turn to starboard when under
power. IMHO, Pearson should have offset the
propeller to port instead to compensate for the prop
rotation rather than enforce it.

—
Rich Carter

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<.. snip>

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[unabated]

Did you spend the winter in DR?
alan
— Joseph Steiner <> wrote:

Quote:

I do a variation of that..short bursts of power, but
when I’m in reverse it’s because I’m in very tight
quarters, like a tight marina. Other wise, I’m at
anchor with lots of space and no issues whatever the
boat wants to do.
Trying to stay away from marinas as much as
possible…lying at anchor now, Falmouth Harbor,
Antigua.
— Ron Repp <> wrote:

Quote:

Get as much speed up, under power, as possible in
reverse. Then go to
neutral. You then have current running past the
rudder but no propwalk.

Ronald S. Repp, CPCU, CLU
Schauer Insurance
200 Market Ave., N Suite 100
Phone: (330) 453-7721
Fax: (330) 453-4911
Email:

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[unabated]

I do find that alot of power at first, then back off
or even go to neutral to get some way on, works
well… or as I tell SO….. just make it look like
which ever way it’s going, thats what you intended….

That works every time
alan

— Joseph Steiner <> wrote:

If you floor it you can get more control..but make
sure you don’t crash into anything going backwards!!

Ohhh to have a bow thruster!! makes me salivate.

— joe shimkonis <> wrote:

I have the same issue with a Maxi prop to

starboard

in reverse.In fact,with a strong current,strong
winds,and the starboard action I had a rather
unpleasent experience in Beaufort,NC this
weekend.Are there any tricks that can get these
boats to back to port?Rudder setting,certain
speed?I’m thinking seriously about a bow thruster.

Joseph Steiner <> wrote: I have

a

Max-Prop and I get prop walk to starboard in
reverse…can’t say if it would be worse with a
regular prop since I can’t compare..but I can only
say
the max still gives a prop walk…quite severe,
especially whe you don’t want to go that

way…LOL!

— Patrick_Seattle
wrote:

On the trip home from the haul-out portion of my
survey the boat was really pushing to starboard

(the

same side walks to when in reverse). My surveyor

Don (Owns Syringa) said his boat does this too.

Free

Spirit has the W58 and Syringa has the W60.

I was wondering if this was a common experience

and

what people have done (if anything) to improve

it.

I

was thinking a Max-Prop could help quite a bit.

Prop

is marked 20LH13.

Thanks,
-p

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[unabated]

I 2nd Bob here. Pretty random with no wind blowing.
W58 and a 20LH12 Was a 13 but repitched it last year.
alan

— Robert Fine <> wrote:

I may be doing something wrong, but I don’t feel
prop walk in any particular
direction astern – Pelican goes pretty much at
random until enough way is on
for the rudder to work (which, by the way, is
considerable as the rudder is
way too small for the boat). Going astern in a
tight situation is always an
adventure. I have a three bladed prop and a W58.

Bob

On Wed, May 7, 2008 at 5:10 AM, Joseph Steiner
<> wrote:

I have a Max-Prop and I get prop walk to starboard

in

reverse…can’t say if it would be worse with a
regular prop since I can’t compare..but I can only

say

the max still gives a prop walk…quite severe,
especially whe you don’t want to go that

way…LOL!

— Patrick_Seattle <>

wrote:

On the trip home from the haul-out portion of my
survey the boat was really pushing to starboard

(the

same side walks to when in reverse). My surveyor
Don (Owns Syringa) said his boat does this too.

Free

Spirit has the W58 and Syringa has the W60.

I was wondering if this was a common experience

and

what people have done (if anything) to improve

it. I

was thinking a Max-Prop could help quite a bit.

Prop

is marked 20LH13.

Thanks,
-p

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Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

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[unabated]

Thats why I don’t use plastic thru hulls.

alan

— Eric Lorentzon <> wrote:

So you want mail…
Sat and Sunday were my last weekend on the hard
prior to launch.
First thing I had to do was wire in a float switch
and bilge pump. So chasing the wire from the panel
back I fount 7 splices to nowhere (three with
household wire nuts and open hot connections). After
a clean splice and an initial attempt at mounting
the pump on the flat section above the ballast
resulted in the holding tank not being able to seat
properly where I wanted it forward of the pump I
struggled with where to mount the pump for about 30
minutes. Finally decided to mount it on top of the
shower sump pan. I removed 5 screws that held the
forward section of the lid in place drilled 3 1/4″
holes through the sump mounting board, lid and lower
lip of the sump pan and bolted it in place. Wired a
float switch and dumped about 10 gal of fresh hot
water with pine scented Clorox into the bilge then
went at it with a good scrub brush it pumped down to
having about 3 gal left when the float switch kicked
off…. So I have to consider weiring another switch
that will let me
get down to a few quarts.
Then remounted the holding tank and reconnected
all the hose flushed systems and called it a
Saturday.
Sunday had 3 quick projects in store:
Replace a gate valve for the shower sump drain at
the thruhull, check the lights on the mast and
recommission the engine, prior to launch this Friday
may 9.
When I went to loosen the gate valve from the
t-hull the whole assembly turned and broke and hint
of a seal at the t-hull. So I figured I would
replace it with a spare Marelon that I had in the
kit. Now this is my first attempt at replacing a
t-hull. I got all the surfaces cleaned up and seated
the new t-hull in BoatLifeand while my buddy Greg
held the mushroom in place and I tightened the nut I
was not sure how tight was good – I went an 1/8 turn
too far and heard a SNAP – Figured I had popped the
treads, but Nooooooo – I broke the mushroom.
So off to West Marine for another. Got it together
and seated then could not find my Teflon tape.
Sea-cock can wait until Thursday night…..
OK on to the mast… There are more wires in there
than there are fixtures on the boat. Managed to
trace the critical lighting and electronic wires and
label them for connection.
While checking the anchor light discovered it the
lens was all dried out and the bulb was bad,
fortunately the guy on the boat next to me had one
he was not planing to put in until next weekend –
saved another run to WM. Really wish I had time to
rewire the mast…
Engine – well the old red beast has been resting
for nearly 2 years. Last Sunday managed to get it
started but had no water for cooling so only ran for
a few minutes (dangerous I know).
This Sunday I was prepared with hose and water and
got her running for a solid 25 minutes – only took
about 14 tries to turn her over.
Wet bottom on Friday – hope the water stays on the
outside. This will be my first experience with my
new to me 28year old boat. The excitement is growing
in proportion to the approach of launch the to-do
list is growing exponentially…..
Eric
NAVASANA

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[unabated]

As anyone tried to replace these drains with the pins?
I have not been able to find an exact replacement.
alan
— Aaron Lynch <> wrote:

Hull #50 1978 or 79 (there¹s a bit of a discrepancy)
also has the pins that
look factory installed.

On 5/1/08 3:38 PM, Rodd Leeds wrote :

My deck drains have the pin across the opening as

well. Guess Pearson

Quote:

changed a few times. BTW hull is 1983 #214.

Rodd Leeds

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[unabated]

I don’t think so, I have one off now and they are
factory done. I am talking about the deck drains, not
the cockpit drains.
alan

— wrote:

The pin in the middle is likely a modification done
by a previous owner.
See

https://www.pearson424.org/plumbing/tt-cockpitdraingclog.html

Quote:

—
Rich Carter

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[unabated]

I think if you ask 10 people about grounding a SSB
radio you will most likely get 11 opinions.
ICOM has some great tech articles on the subject. The
best place to ask questions about SSB is the SSCA
forum.

alan

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[unabated]

I know how controversial the conversations can be
concerning SSB, so …lets try this on for size.
PO had a strip of copper foil the was tacked down the
length of the bilge running to the thruhull in the aft
hanging locker. That thruhull is not connected to the
bonding system. The foil then goes the ground lug on
the tuner.
The ant. is a ss 1×19 wire that runs up to an
insulator on top of the mizzen mast then over to the
top of the main mast where it is attached to small
line.
I figure I’ll just leave well enough alone for the
time being. Try the Pactor modem and go from there. I
am thinking I shlould be able to get something up here
in Lake Ontario (away from the marina of course).
If that does not work well… there is always radials
right?
As for the HAM thing… I have a study guide. the test
doesn’t seem to hard….I mean I just got my USCG
Masters… so…. not to dis the ham people.
alan

— John Stevenson <> wrote:

Alan,
I’ll let Rich speak for his experience with the
SGC2000, but one of my
friends who is in the business of re-selling and
installing marine HF radios
has an SGC2000 on board. He has a similar opinion
on it as Rich expressed,
but he still uses it on board, and he is fairly
active on the Ham
frequencies. He does not do a lot of DSQing, but he
does (or used to)
participate in the most of the cruisers nets on the
East Coast and the
Caribbean. I think if he ever went cruising (never
happen) he would upgrade
the SSB – he buys radios wholesale. In the meantime
it meets his needs.
So I think whether the SGC2000 sucks for you depends
on how important it is
in your cruising plans and where you cruise. If
you’re just going to the
Caribbean for a few years and have a Ham license,
the SGC is probably
adequate. If you want to cross an ocean maybe you
should consider an
upgrade. I assume you have the SGC230 tuner, which
most knowledgeable
people consider the best. That’s what I use with my
802. So if you decide
to upgrade the SSB don’t let the SGC230 go, it will
work with just about any
marine SSB.
That Pactor modem will put a lot of demand on your
radio so that should be a
good test of the adequacy of the SGC for your needs.
If you can reliably
connect to SailMail or Winlink, why upgrade? Of
course success with
SailMail and Winlink has as much to do with the
quality of the counterpoise
as it does with the HF radio.
With regard to Winlink and Sailmail. Last summer,
sailing back to the US, I
found it very difficult to connect to Winlink, but
consistently connected to
SailMail. That even though there were a lot more
stations in the Winlink
network and generally better propagation available
than to the single
SailMail station in Europe (Brussels). Eventually I
stopped attempting to
connect to Winlink and used SailMail the rest of the
way. Once I was within
1500 nm of the US SailMail stations I was able to
connect reliably with
them. I did have to request additional time from
SailMail – you are limited
to 90 minutes in any 7 consecutive days. I never
discovered or got an
explanation of why I had such great success with
SailMail and such little
success with Winlink.

John

On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 6:27 AM, alan P
<> wrote:

Rich,
Does your SGC-2000 suck that bad. My boat came

with

one and a tuner. I have not had much time to play

with

it so I don’t know how “good” it is. Although I

have

talked to some guy from Texas and have listened

to

one of the cruisers net when the weather is right

and

the stars are aligned. I have purchased a pactor
modem this winter and plan to start messing

around.

alan

—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

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[unabated]

Rich,
Does your SGC-2000 suck that bad. My boat came with
one and a tuner. I have not had much time to play with
it so I don’t know how “good” it is. Although I have
talked to some guy from Texas and have listened to
one of the cruisers net when the weather is right and
the stars are aligned. I have purchased a pactor
modem this winter and plan to start messing around.
alan
— wrote:

Quote:

As John said, this is a little like religion. I’ve
owned a few dozen HF radios over the years. One of
my hobbies is restoring them. Each have advantages,
receiver performance, ease of use, filters, band
coverage, operator interface, frequency stability,
and optional features. None of the marine radios
that I’ve owned or seen can compete with a good HAM
radio, but HAM radios are not type-approved for use
on the marine bands. There are some marine radios
that are type-approved for amateur use, but this is
not the same thing. I keep two HF rigs on the boat,
and ICOM-706 and an SGC-2000. The 706 is a decent
radio, but is not outstanding. You can buy a good
used one for about $400. The SGC works OK on the
marine bands, but is really not a very good radio.
The matching tuner is nice however. Some folks use
their amateur radio on the marine bands. This is
technically illegal, though some amateur radios have
stability specs that are as good as the marine
radios.

So what’s the best radio? It all depends on what
you want to do with your HF radio and how much you
are willing to spend. If you just want to get on
the marine bands when offshore, a contemporary
marine SSB would work fine. If you want to keep in
touch with your cruising buddies over long
distances, you would probably find a HAM radio to be
of more value (along with the license to go with
it).

So what’s a band? Frequency allocation is done by
the FCC in what are called bands. The FCC will
grant use of a contiguous set of frequencies to a
radio service. This is called a band. In the case
of both the marine and amateur services, there are
band allocations scattered in the HF spectrum.
Because of the odd behavior of radio waves over long
distances and the influence of sun light and sunspot
activity, different bands can be used for
communication over different distances at different
times of the day.

So what’s the difference between marine bands and
amateur bands? Marine bands are channelized much
like a marine VHF radio. You dial in a channel
number. While you are probably aware of the band
you are working on, the actual frequency is of
little consequence. Marine radios are designed for
appliance operators. These are folks who just want
to make a contact with another station and don’t
want to be bothered with making adjustments to the
radio to make the received signal sound better.

Traffic on the marine bands is usually specific to
marine operations, though you may hear private
conversations at times. Amateur band traffic is
usually of three types, contest operations, net
traffic, and private conversations (aka
rag-chewing). Transmissions are done on random
frequencies within assigned bands. Contests are
what they sound like. You enter a contest and get
points for making contacts with other stations.
Points are awarded based on rules like where the
other station is. Net operations are done at
pre-arranged frequencies and times for a specific
purpose. The marine mobile net is a good example.
Here cruising folks can check in to see if anyone
has left a message for them.

So what makes one radio better than another?
Receiver sensitivity, selectivity, and noise
suppression (filtering) are probably most important.
The difference between two radios connected to the
same antenna can be quite dramatic. My SGC is deaf
in comparison with the ICOM-706 next to it. I can
receive and copy stations on the 706 that I can’t
even hear on the SGC. The 706 is deaf when compared
with an Elecraft K2 I have at home.

Wefax is usually transmitted on a band that is
neither in the marine bands nor the amateur bands.
The transmission is in a government allocated band.
The US has discontinued wefax transmissions because
it cost a few hundred grand each year to keep the
stations on the air. You can still receive wefax
broadcasts from Canada and overseas under the right
conditions. You can also receive precise time of
day. Most but not all marine and amateur radios can
be tuned outside their approved bands to receive
wefax and time. You can copy wefax, navtex, and
other digital mode broadcasts using either free
software or purchased software. Although you can
probably connect your laptop microphone jack
directly to your radio speaker output, I would
recommend buying an interface box to isolate the two
pieces (approx $150).

—
Rich Carter – BlackSheep #47

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[unabated]

Paul, What size heater are you putting in. I’ am
trying to decide if I can get the 11 gallon one in
there. I might have to cut away the corner of the
shelf to fit anything higher than a 16 in unit (round
unit. I’ll have to remove the trim to get it though
the opening.
alan

— Paul Lefebvre <> wrote:

Thanks for the info. I will pass on the TCV for now
and go with the standard
set-up. While looking into that locker last night, I
noticed that I only had
a distribution header for my cold water. For the hot
water, the 3 pieces of
tubing were just hanging loose. I take it the PO
never had hot water for the
12 years he owned the boat.

Has anyone made up a different way to do the header
other than the multiple
T’s and nipples that Pearson used. Is there a
pre-made header of some sort
already out there, possibly used for radiant floor
heating.

Paul

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[unabated]

Do you have any pictures of where the shelves are
tabbed and to what extent?
thanks
alan

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