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It means the inner shaft seal is leaking. Usually due to the bearing being bad also or maybe just wear on the shaft.
Easy to replace the pump. A good mechanic could do it in less than 2 hours.
Parts were in stock when I did mine. Don’t forget to get the gaskets at the same time.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Mar 3, 2014, at 5:29 PM, “kalinowski” wrote:
I finally chased down a coolant leak on the old W-58. It’s coming from a bleed hole on the bottom of the shaft housing. Does this mean the pump is bad? Can it be rebuilt? I’ve never been this way, so looking for guidance from all.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Need to measure the mast from gooseneck to black band at masthead. My sailmaker, Haarstick, found 2 different measurements for p424 ketches.
They did a great job on all my sails. And I believe Walt was happy with them also.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Mar 2, 2014, at 9:20 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Sorry Bill,
Here are the numbers:
Main sail: P: 38′ 0″, E: 14′ 6″
Mizzen: P: 23′ 0″, E: 8′ 9″
Where P is the luff and E is the foot.
Good luck,
Bob
On Sun, Mar 2, 2014 at 9:08 AM, wrote:
thanks, Bob. Another boat here in George Town has a candidate sail, and I
was just trying for a quick response from someone who may have had the
measurements at their fingertips, as Internet availability is poor when it
exists at all and costly.
Have a good day.~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMAIn a message dated 3/2/2014 8:53:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:If you need it I can send you a copy. But honestly, any sailmaker will
have the measurement or you can do it yourself.Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.On Mar 2, 2014 8:26 AM, wrote:
tks, John, all the best.
~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMAIn a message dated 3/2/2014 8:05:22 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:Bill,
Here is a link to the P424 sail plan I put on my website:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Sail%20Plan%20Med.JPGIt is difficult to read as I had to scan the original plan in 8xs11
sections then piece them together. I believe Pat publish a clean imageof
the plan on the P424 website. You might search there for it.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Mar 2, 2014 at 6:52 AM, wrote:
Thanks, Steve.
~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMAIn a message dated 3/1/2014 11:38:01 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:as well as any thoughts on weight, lofts, experiences, price,
etc., tks. I’m a ketch rig, btw..
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Mizzen sheet to rail. Mizzen stay sail sheet along boom and down mast.
No pictures.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Feb 25, 2014, at 10:30 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
I think most of us have put the sheet to the stern rail.
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.On Feb 25, 2014 10:20 AM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:
Very strange… let’s try again…
Imagine if you will putting all of the blocks and padeyes from your boat
in a big box for four years and then remembering exactly how each was
mounted while also replacing a bunch of them with new Garhauer hardware….
I just didn’t take enough pictures first. Now I could use some advice
or pictures on how folks rigged their mizzen sheet near the gooseneck.
Our Bimini is high and the sheet needs to run tighter in that turn to keep
from rubbing holes in the front edge of the Bimini fabric. Suggestions
and pictures greatly appreciated.Pete
On 2/25/2014 9:04 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
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Ditto on rigging only.
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Quote:On Feb 18, 2014, at 6:09 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:Stephen & Jody,
I re-rigged Silverheels myself back in 2007. It was not
difficult, even for me. I upsized all the wire sizes,
changed the main backstay from a split to a double and
added HF radio insulators. At the time the best deal I
found in the US for truly top quality (shop-tested)
rigging materials was Rigging Only
(http://www.riggingonly.com). The people there were awesome,
taking lots of time to coach me through any
shortcomings in my knowledge or abilities. The owner
even suggested that rather than spend the extra money
for all Sta-Lok fittings as I had intended, that I
would get equally sound, long-lasting stays & shrouds
by letting them put a swage fitting on the upper end of
the wires. He said in their experience an upper swage
will last as long as the wire itself, that it’s always
the lower swages that crack and fail.I could dig out all the pricing info, but it’s 7 years
old. Best to just ask them for current pricing. The
shipping (at that time) was not a big deal.Good luck,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I had my raft certified before my Caribbean trip. it cost $800. a lot of it depends on how much of the perishables inside the raft need to be replaced. so some of the quote is age-related.
The cool thing was, while I was there the guy gave me about 20 of these big ass parachute flares. There were only six months out of date but they were still usable, they were just by the date.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Feb 2, 2014, at 7:21 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Bob & Rich,
I can verify the certification cost for a Switlik raft at $1200. That is
the price I was quoted last year from the outfit in Baltimore.Bob,
I know you are smaller than I, but a 6 man raft is barely large enough for
2 people for more than 24 hours. If you’ve ever climbed into one with more
than another person you will want to get out ASAP. They are only for
survival, but I’m not sure I could survive with another person in a 4 man
raft.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Feb 2, 2014 at 1:19 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Oh, no, the cost of a new raft is $2500 to $3500. So raft and cert is like
$1500, at least from me. Check out the cost of these things. You’ll have
a heart attack.Bob
On Sun, Feb 2, 2014 at 10:53 AM, wrote:
Bob
It’s been a while since I had to certify a raft. Your quoting the
certification price at $1200 and the cost of a new raft at $600. Doesthis
Quote:make sense?Rich
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Don’t trash it. They make wonderfully good pry bars around the boat/house. Also good for mounting bird houses in the yard. I have 3 such shafts for those purposes.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Jan 15, 2014, at 8:44 PM, “Page Two” wrote:
…another one bites the dust…http://pagetwo88.blogspot.com/2014/01/prop-shaft-terminated.html
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I believe aquamet 19 is the most common material used in recreational boats. 21 is really expensive compared to the benefits.
AlanSent from my iPhone
Quote:On Jan 15, 2014, at 12:34 PM, wrote:I have a stainless shaft and prop. I honestly don’t know what alloy these are made from but for what they cost me it should be gold. Both are holding up fine after approx 7 years. I keep my zincs serviced. I paint the shaft and prop with spray outdrive paint and pettit zinc coat primer. This does nothing for the area inside the stern tube and cutless.
Rich
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If you do a lot of sailing in the Bahamas where the fine silt and sand is, that will also eat away at the shaft under that area covered by the the cutlass bearing.
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Quote:On Jan 14, 2014, at 1:17 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:A cutlass bearing can last for many years – almost
indefinitely. However, it can also wear out in a few
months if abraded by a misaligned and/or vibrating prop
shaft. If the shaft really doesn’t move at all when you
jerk it up & down by hand near the strut, then the
cutlass bearing is still good. That’s most of what I
know on that subject. Bob and Rich are much smarter
than I am (really). Maybe they’ll chime in with more
alternatives.Seems to me if everything else is aligned, from engine
to V-drive to shaft, and if the cutlass bearing is also
definitely good, then maybe it’s time to spend the $$$
at PYI. But only IF.BTW, have you been servicing the MaxProp at each
haul-out as they recommend (or did when I had one in
the late 80’s), taking it apart and repacking the
grease, etc?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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If it’s separated from the hull you might try throwing in a couple of lag bolts with a hook and try lifting it up with a chain fall.
You might be able to get it up high enough, turn it sideways,and lift right out of there
Alan
Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 10, 2014, at 2:31 AM, “Page Two” wrote:
The PO filled the deepest part of the keel with, I believe he said epoxy. Now that I know the depth of the pour (I’ll explain in a minute) he did, I find it very hard to believe he even bought that much epoxy. The top had a nice sheen as epoxy or some kind of resin would leave. There was also a nice bead of 5200 all around the edge. It looked nice, it looked solid, easy to clean and vacuum out. Now it’s my nightmare.
I had told the yard owner and lift operator about not blocking the back end of the keel. I told them it was hollow and showed with my hands the approximate location of the lead. Figuring I had time to run out and get a quick breakfast in a warm restaurant as they were scrubbing the bottom (it was a record breaking cold day for Florida that morning) I took off sure I’d be back in time. Wrong.
I was told they were using a hammer to test the sound going aft and of course they were tapping down low about 8″ up from the bottom. Because of the filler (epoxy?) it sounded good and solid to them and they blocked it back about a third of the way into the void not feeling comfortable with blocking just up forward. When I got back, water was dripping (there was some in the bilge when I hauled) out the bottom. When I went inside and shined a light to my bilge…..the whole outer edge except at the keel had separated from the hull and got pushed up. The hull flexed out from the pressure. The next day they lifted me again and I placed the blocking from center of the lead edge and as far forward as possible and one small block about 6″ from the aft edge. The boat set down fine with the weight evenly distributed when the load was released from the straps, he said…”That felt better than yesterday” The hull inside the boat did not completely close back of course, so there is about a 1/4″ void all around for water to get in and under that filler. No good!
They ground the bottom and about a foot long crack showed up. They’ll take care of the bottom repair, as they should, but now I have the job of removing that monstrous hunk of whatever. I’ll add another layer or two of glass on the inside and leave well enough alone. I will not fill it. I’m going to leave that particular job for a few weeks and do thru-hulls, shaft, cutlass bearing first, then I’ll dig in the bottom. I’ll update my progress as I go.
I read the previous thread about this debate, to fill or not to fill. If you think about it, anything you poured, even if you clean the hull really good, will “pop” with that much pressure unless you physically attach it to the hull 360 degrees.
Ken
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They had some problems with early models but have since resolved them. No issues with ais or VHF on UNABATED.
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Quote:On Dec 7, 2013, at 7:53 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:No problems that I’ve noticed with the LED
tricolor+VHF/SSB/AIS on Silverheels.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I remember when unabated was moved from fla. to Lake Ontario 10 years ago. The truck blew a rear axle oil line coming thru the mountains of Pennsylvania. It blew an entire axle worth of 90 wt. gear oil over the fwd third of the boat. What a mess! The trucking company Insurance paid for clean up but that didn’t make it any easier to do.
Good luck.
AlanSent from my iPhone
Quote:On Nov 9, 2013, at 6:04 PM, Alan wrote:Just remember That your boat will be traveling in winds in excess of 70 mph over the road. Prepare accordingly.
AlanSent from my iPhone
Quote:On Nov 9, 2013, at 11:51 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:OMG, you’re right! It’s Elvis!
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Just remember That your boat will be traveling in winds in excess of 70 mph over the road. Prepare accordingly.
AlanSent from my iPhone
Quote:On Nov 9, 2013, at 11:51 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:OMG, you’re right! It’s Elvis!
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The pump had two ports. One high volume low pressure – used for the tubes. the other is low volume high pressure used for the floor. The pump should also come with a pressure gauge to indicate when the tubes or floor is adequately inflated.
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On Oct 20, 2013, at 6:41 PM, “Page Two” wrote:
Alan, that is some very interesting info. (The factory says the inflatable floor should be so stiff you can put it between two sawhorses and stand on it. )
I haven’t read up on my new (to me) tender, which has an “inflatable floor” like you mention because I’ve been busy getting other things squared away as my wife and I delve back into the cruising life after a 17 year sabbatical.
If I have to blow that sucker up that much and I can stand on it between two sawhorses….I “will” have pictures to share, if I can figure out how to post them as snazzy as Tor! 🙂
Ken
[/i]
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In order to be effective an inflatable floor has to be absolutely stiff there’s a gauge that you use to inflated with.
The factory says the inflatable floor should be so stiff you can put it between two sawhorses and stand on it.
Otherwise it’s too soft and a bubble will develop underneath it trying to get up on plane.
Also be sure you can handle the weight of a rib not just on davits but trying to pull the sucker up on the beach with the motor. That’s well over 200 pounds, the wife or kids may not be able to handle it.
Just saying.
AlanSent from my iPhone
Quote:On Oct 18, 2013, at 9:09 PM, “Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.” wrote:Whiffler carries a 8 HP Yamaha with a 10 foot inflatable soft bottom. Quick, but a hard bottom will be my next dingy purchase. Soft bottom – too flexible.
S
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No….paul had an unexplainable distaste for the bird. Walt didn’t like the fact that the bird crapped all over his sleeping bag and lap top.
The sparrow turned up missing one morning.
No questions asked!!!Alan
Sent from my iPhoneQuote:On Oct 1, 2013, at 9:49 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:So did the sparrow make it to Bermuda?
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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