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Jim, I installed a conventional tube mounted unit. I had the yard install the tube. I did the rest. It was easy. Running cables was the toughest part. I put in a Lewmar unit, very simple to mount and wire.
What happens to the exturn when the sling catches it on haul out? Sling marks are not fool proof.
Chuck
On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 12:06 PM, Jim Ashworth < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hello, fellow 424 owners,
…….
But one that stays high on the project list is a bow thruster. I know intuitively that if I practice better techniques, I should be able to manuveur without one.Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pete, think of it as insurance (we all complain about the price but deep down know what is is there for). A re-power will give you peace of mind. You may recover some of the funds when you sell the boat, a quicker sale more likely. A re-build on a marine engine while straight forward isn't the same as an over the road rebuild. The guy that has been rebuilding Detroit Diesel 871's for a living could do it with his eyes closed and probably has a thousand under his belt. A W58 might be the first one your shop has seen, not so say it won't be right but how will you really know?
I rebuilt my W60 for the experience. I'll probably re-power with a 4JH4E soon and sell the W60 as is. For trips around the bay Winona does just fine and my towing insurance backs her up. Off shore to distant anchorages, I don't want to have to be concerned about it.
If it's running and it does what you want it to do, keep her clean, feed fresh fuel and change the oil. Check the valves and service the injectors. Run it till it stops, it might very well prove to be like the cat you thought was going to pass on at 15 and now at 20 is still filling the litter box (and running up a few vet bills).Chuck
On Sat, Nov 28, 2009 at 7:15 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Pete,
What it boils down to is …
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Pete, it shouldn't need to be removed to get the tank out. I couldn't get the fill fitting off the tank so I cut it with a hack saw. The tank will drop down and slide under the brace when the stern end is tipped up. It took a few tries but it slid right out. I was looking at doing the same thing but was fed this same information and it turned out to be right.
Chuck
On Fri, Nov 27, 2009 at 9:12 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Rich, (anyone else in the Pearson group can also comment on this. Thanks!)
I am in the middle of pulling my fuel tank and wanted to ask you for some clarification of how you removed the front support piece to create vertical clearance.
Did you just pass a sawzall under the carriage horizontally to cut our the screws? Or how exactly did you do it?
Thanks,
Pete
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The injection seats are the copper crush washer that drops in the hole before you put the injector back in. Any Westerbeke distributor should be able to set you up with these. Engines One in Norfolk is one.
In the Westerbeke W60 manual it's described at an 'atomizer seal washer' (I think its page A25) and shows a diagram of how it is oriented for installation. Looking through the parts blow up, I don't see the item listed though.
Chuck
On Fri, Nov 20, 2009 at 8:19 AM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Chuck-
The rubber injection seats are original. Where would I get new ones, from Westerbeke?
RoddQuote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rodd, install new injector seats when you put them back in. Some anti seize isn't a bad idea either. The copper stuff they sell at NAPA is fine.
Don't run it hard with no load on it.
Chuck
On Thu, Nov 19, 2009 at 5:04 PM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Just picked up my 4 injectors from service shop. One was hung up and the other 3 had a lot of carbon on them, but were working ok. I hope this solves my white smoke and soot on transom problems!
Tech told me the carbon build up is due to a lot of running engine at idle. He said to be sure to run the engine hard at least for a few minutes whenever using the engine.
These injectors had about 300 hours since new.
I'll have to wait for next season to see the results!
Rodd Leeds
WindseekerPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Patrick, I found a similar mess in mine. The offset vanes I was able to snap off with my thumb and forefinger. I ended up with a new RV26. Not a drop in replacement, some minor mods to the mount and engine output shaft.
Chuck
On Wed, Nov 18, 2009 at 9:53 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I am poking around at my v-drive and thought some of you might like to see the pics where I opened it up a little bit.
Input shaft http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4115846727
Cooling jacket http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4115846789/-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Joe, if the shaft brake is still in place you could insert a wedge into the caliper if doing extended sailing.
On Mon, Nov 16, 2009 at 11:59 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Hi Chuck,
Thank you very much for your insight. I do have the original fixed bladed prop as a spare on board, but since my shaft brake does not work, I did not want to use this prop. I suspect the prop was not greased after being sent to be polished. It was working fine for 3 hours of use so I assumed everything had been done right.
many thanks,
Joe,Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Jim, something is possibly hanging inside the unit but the blades wouldn't travel through the full feather range. If one blade is feathered the others should move with it. If you feather a blade while spinning the prop and all 3 move move through the complete feathering range from forward to reverse there's no reason why it shouldn't be working. The blades are feathered by the energy from the shaft. I've got one in front of me here for reference.
Are you 100% certain the shaft is turning when you put it into forward?
The prowell is an odd unit, cannot be adjusted like a maxx prop (some sort of tab/stop arrangement that has to be built up or machined down) plus I think they are out of business. Someone that worked there now does the service work on them.
Chuck
On Mon, Nov 16, 2009 at 7:59 AM, Joseph Steiner < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi all,
Have any of you ever had a feathering prop that stays feathered..stuck in the feathered position?
I have a 10 year old Prowell 2000ssp, that was just cleaned and polished, serviced and put back on a brand new shaft. It ran fine for 3 hours, then suddenly quit. It will defeather when I go in reverse, but when I go into forward the blades stick in the feathered position.
I don't know what to do. I dove on it and can turn it manually, but it sticks when I just rotate the shaft. I surmise that it was not greased when re-installed after cleaning..but now I'm in the water, anchored in Grenada, with no forward thrust capability. I suppose I will need to get towed and hauled out.
Any advice/suggestions appreciated!
Joe,
s/v Half MoonPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thornycroft can supply you with base engine parts, bearings, rings etc.
On Wed, Nov 11, 2009 at 2:51 PM, adam silverstein < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Esp. Chuck R.: Is it a bmc 2.52, a leyland 154 or what? And is there a USA source o' parts?
Adam Silverstein, iPhone
(Scurrying to make the Addison point bridge before 3:30m)
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Aluminum. Unless you cut the sole out of the cockpit, no you cannot remove without first moving the engine. Removing the engine was easier than the tank.
On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 7:45 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Chuck,
What material is the tank made of? Mine's steel and has some rust issues but doesn't leak yet. I'm going to Corroseal it to stop the rust, but of course there are places I can't get at.
Is the new tank replaceable without removing the engine? Or is that an impossibility?
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFinePost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rudy, Florida Marine Tank (in North Carolina) has an updated CAD drawing of the 424 tank. It includes two access plates, the pick up relocated so it can be removed with out pulling the tank. The tank is 4 gallons smaller to make it easier to get in. I may have posted the drawing on the 424 org page… if not I can send you a copy.
Go to the 424 site and in the forum section do a search on fuel tank, there were a number of messages exchanged on this already.
ChuckOn Sun, Nov 8, 2009 at 10:30 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
If there is any additional information on pulling the W-58 and replacing the fuel tank, I would love to see it. I need to replace the fuel tank and am about to start this project.
Rudy
Nakedmoon
In a message dated 11/8/2009 9:53:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, () writes:Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Sea Duty; thumb screws into threaded inserts holding the three panels together at the front with the draw latches holding the whole doghouse to the bulkhead. I find sliding the entire dog house forward easy enough for a overall check. Only if I'm doing extended work will I break down the three panels, making it easy to store.
ChuckOn Thu, Nov 5, 2009 at 4:50 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Or even these:
http://www.marinepartdepot.com/dring.html
On Thu, Nov 5, 2009 at 11:32 AM, reluctant < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Seperate the three vertical pieces of the doghouse (they were originally screwed together) and use draw latches to hold the sides to the front piece.
Then you can access the engine without removing the top and all if it's accumulated treasures by removing the ladder, unhooking the latches and pulling the front vertical piece out. Great for checking the trans and engine oil before starting the engine.—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFinePost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
The sense leads (there should be two sets) are to sense oil pressure from a running engine and or shore power. The system isn't intended to be run on batteries alone. Properly wired these will prevent that.
Chuck
On Fri, Oct 30, 2009 at 3:15 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:Quote:Oh, ah, well, that's a different story entirely. Nevermind. I thought it sensed the presence of 120v and ran off that or 12v if 120 wasn't available.Oops.
Bob
On Fri, Oct 30, 2009 at 3:31 PM, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Robert
The voltage sense wire is used to sense charging voltage so that the compressor will pull the cold plates down with the full fury of the system. Once the plates are frozen or they begin to melt the unit runs for short periods so not to drain the batteries. Or that is the best that I can figure from the provided information.
Linus<.. snip>
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Rumor is Raymarine is getting bought out by a larger competitor.
On Sun, Oct 11, 2009 at 9:47 PM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:Hi Lee-
Got nothing from Raymarine but their 800 number.Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Mine was $1500. A custom matteress shop in Deltaville had it cut for me. It's simply a nice queen matteress with one side shaped to fit the aft port corner. I sleep quite well and every date thats made it to the aft stateroom has had no complaints either, they always return ;p
ChuckOn Tue, Oct 13, 2009 at 12:21 PM, Eric Lorentzon < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I too am considering the mattress material in my aft cabin.
A temporary solution that has worked for me was to add 2 self inflating camp pads…….Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
