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He, something I can answer….
As part of my re-rig I replaced the wire pendants, existing blocks and lines
as follows:26′ standing pendants of 3/16″ Amsteel with eye splices in each with a SS
thimble on both ends.
Bottom end of the pendant has a Garhauer 25-14US Single Block with Becket
The fiddle blockes were replaced with Garhauer 25-05US Fiddle with cam cleat
and snap shackleI dont’ have the lengths for my running part of the stays in my spreadsheet,
but I used 3/8″ XLS Yacht braid with an eye splice in one end to attach it
to the becket on the end of the pendant.I wish I made my pendants a little shorter as the thimbles touch my bimini
structure. I’ll probably shorten them up when I’m bored some day and the
clinking is driving me crazy.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 5:59 PM, SilverHeels wrote:
Quote:Herbc,Welcome to the Home of the Elite. Those “adjustable” backstays on the
P424’s
mizzen are called “running backstays.” Basically, you leave the leeward
stay
loose and keep the windward stay pulled as tight as you can by hand using
the double-purchase blocks provided. The taught “running back” keeps the
mizzen mast from toppling forward in a blow. The slack leeward running
backstay allows the mizzen boom to swing out on the leeward side as far as
it needs to for that tack. As you tack you let the taught running backstay
run free and pull the other one tight so that on the new tack you once
again
have the windward running backstay taught and the leeward one loose.Personally I’d have preferred it if Pearson/Shaw had come up with a less
demanding system back there. Most mizzen masts are simply fix-stayed so
they’re self-tending when tacking. Not so with the P424.Reef early,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424, #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!My v-drive also runs more quietly at higher RPMs. This might be a question
better asked of Walter though.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 2:58 PM, Alan <> wrote:
I had the engine out to repair the bent strut. While is was out I replaced
the oil pan gaskets and the vibration damper on the flywheel. One of the
springs was so rusted it was lying in the bottom of the bell housing. That
would explain the “clunking” sound at low RPM.
I had the V Drive rebuilt by Walters in the mean time. The boat is back in
the water and everything appears to be align according to specs. When in
gear at 800 RPM (forward or reverse) the V Drive sounds like a machine
gun……(the Cluncking sound is gone) After about 1000 RPM the sound goes
away and is very quiet.
Question: I am used to the clunking and whir of a worn unit…. is this
what a new or rebuilt unit sounds like…..?
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I 100% agree with Tor on the experimentation. Put all the chain you plan to
have in there and see how it piles, also see what your waterline looks like.As for your original question re: removal of the anchor locker (the upper
area). In allowing the chain to travel into the lower area, or the chain
locker as I refer to it you are also opening the interior of the boat to the
outside and thus the potential for water to inter the boat. To minimize the
risk of that, but also allow for access for maintenance I am going to do the
following;1. The deck will be cut open to eliminate all openings except the hawse
pipe on the windlass. That includes the removal of the following:
1. The anchor locker door
2. The water tank fill plate (which was decomissioned long ago by the
P.O.
3. The deck vent (which lacked a proper dorade)
2. The bottom of the chain locker will be glassed closed and drained
overboard to prevent water ingress into the bilge.
3. The higher drain from the original anchor locker will be sealed (this
might not be neccesary)
4. The opening in the v-berth to the chain locker will be improved so as
to able to handle water splashing around and chain hitting it. It will be
large enough (as it is now) so I can crawl into the chain locker (with the
chain removed) to service the windlass, nav lights, and other hardware
through bolted in this area.There are more details, but that gives you the jist of what I”m doing.
-=p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 2:21 PM, SilverHeels <> wrote:
Quote:Hey Linus,Yes, I need the full height for the chain because it pyramids as it piles
up. With the locker open to the top as I have it there is just enough room
for the 150′ of 3/8 chain piled on top of 100′ of neatly flaked 5/8″ line
for the primary anchor, and 50′ chain over 150′ or 200′ of line (I forget
which) for the second anchor. You can sort of see in the photos I sent that
I left quite a bit of shelving around the hole. I don’t use it for storage
–
it’s not very accessible anyway with the solid decking over it – but did
mount the foredeck washdown pump up there, forward. I considered putting in
a round access plate up there to get at the shelf and the washdown pump,
etc, from the deck, but in the end didn’t have the heart to cut into my
new,
super-strong foredeck.Your idea of having the chain fall along the forward side of the bulkhead
might work fine, or it might cause even more of a pile-up. You might want
to
experiment with it once you’ve opened things up and before you commit to
the
windlass position. However, I’m not sure I see the value of keeping the
shelf in tact unless you’re going to keep the opening hatch above it, in
which case you might as well skip the whole project and go sailing instead.Tor
Silverheels, P-424, #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I’m not setting up the windlass to drive two anchors, but I like your
suggestion for how to determing the proper position.I’m still a baby so I’ll live witch schlepping the anchors for now. In 20
years we’ll have fuel cells that run on hyrdrogen made from sea water and
use engines to keep the boat in position so I’ll never need to upgrade to a
dual anchor system. 😉-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 6:59 AM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:Patrick,Guess you’re committed now. You’ll be glad later if you make the divider
removable, especially if you’re ultimately going to seal the deck above it,
so you have full access from the forepeak when you’re done. Also, if you
run
electrical cables up through the locker to a windlass, you can protect them
by epoxying in PVC tubes as outer sleeves (mine run up the port & starboard
after corners of the locker). Lastly, it’s easier to find the optimum
position for the windlass before decking over. This is important to get
right so that both rodes lead to it smoothly, particularly with a vertical
windlass, which has to be off-center for fair leads. (photos attached)Have fun!
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I finally looked into that light on my AC Panel. Here’s a pic of how it’s wired on the back: http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/5010553633/
Looks to me like it really should be on all the time as I orignally pondered and some of you concurred.
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!It’s right here
http://www.winlink.org/dotnet/maps/PositionreportsDetail.aspx?callsign=w7pea<http://www.winlink.org/dotnet/maps/PositionreportsDetail.aspx?callsign=w7pea>
🙂<http://www.winlink.org/dotnet/maps/PositionreportsDetail.aspx?callsign=w7pea>
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Sep 14, 2010 at 10:45 AM, joe shimkonis <> wrote:
Quote:Where approx is that- I am over here in Portland from East Coast on
business
-keep my Pearson 424 in Myrtle Beach-coming up to Seattle at least 1 of the
next
2 weekends to sitesee or site sea-of course look at boats and
Marinas-probably
also visit Gig Harbor.Can you suggest some area to check out?________________________________
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I’m moored at Shilshole Bay Marine in the Ballard neighborhod of Seattle. I
don’t liveaboard yet That should be this spring if all goes as planned.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 5:02 PM, Lee Yonkers <> wrote:
Quote:Nope. I had Lewmar hatches that a PO had installed. One of the hatches (the
hatch just aft of the mast) leaked. It leaked because the seal between the
lexan
and the aluminum failed.You are on Puget Sound, aren’t you? Do you live aboard? Where is your boat?
lee
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I’m confused, You put lewmar tops on bowmar bottoms?
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 4:00 PM, Lee Yonkers <> wrote:
Quote:All I replaced was the Lexan and the aluminum frame that holds it.When I called Lewmar the guy on the other end of the phone steered me away
from
buying a complete unit, a recommendation that saved me significant amounts
of $.
It would have save lots of time too, except for the fact that I re-beded
all of
my hatches.lee
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!You might want to checkout my list of upgrades others have done to their
P424s
http://www.deepplaya.com/wiki/Pearson-424-Upgrades.ashxHopefully we can meet up when you’re near Seattle.I want to check out what
Don did to fix his salon floor where it was sagging under the settees.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Wed, Sep 8, 2010 at 2:25 PM, Herbc wrote:
We are excited to be owners of the 424 and are looking forward to life
aboard. Will definitely have plenty of questions. We have been chilling at
the marina here in Blaine, Wa soaking it all in and familiarizing ourselves
with the boat and taking care of a few items form the survey, nothing major,
just some easy jobs which get me into the diy mode. Tomorrow we plan to do
the shake down cruise to Sucia and spend a few nights at anchor.Stay tuned, I’m sure your support will be called upon very soon.
Thanks again, Patrick for helping us to get underway here at the 424 forum.
Herb
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!If you are able to claen the water jacket and it’s not that bad you maybe
lenghthing the life. If you scrape out all the crud and end up with
something that won’t seal (my problem) then you’ve go to look at running dry
or replacing.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 9:01 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Walters may not have thought much of it but it worked and that’s what’s
important – especially for such a long trip. 90w gear oil is used in rear
ends (hypoid gears) and transmissions (the other types of gears) just fine.
As I said, mine had 90w in it when I changed it and I may go back to a
heavier than 30w oil just for the noise factor.I’m also thinking of taking apart the water jacket this winter to see
what’s
going on in there. But should I mess with it or just wait until it fails?
Hard to know.Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Analyzin the oil isn’t a bad idea. Of course, you also need to have the
right oil for the higher temperatures. I know one of the other Dry–Drivers
did that, but I forget what grade. It’s int he forum archive though.For me, my dry-drive is just an interim solution. I’m sure I’m going to
replace my v-drive at some point. Just don’t want to do it now.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Sep 2, 2010 at 10:03 AM, norris larson wrote:
Quote:When I raised the question of bypassing the cooling top of the V-drive, Mr.
Walters said it was not a good idea. try this hypotesis before bypassing. If
theoil begins to break down at 130 F and goes higher than that, it will
slowly lose its lubricating powers which could lead to serious overheating,
not immeidately, but over a long period of time. Try it for some specified
number of engine hours, change the oil, and save the old oil and have it
analyzed. That way you will know with some surety what the effects of
running without cooling are.Norris Larson, Easy Reach, #216, on the market still.
— On Mon, 8/30/10, kalinowski wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Thanks for the drain hole information. I keep looking at your setup as
really the ideal one. I think the big hatch on the bow is just a bad idea. I
am leaning very hard toward closing it off as you have done. Along those
lines, I was searching through the forum and couldn’t figure this out. In
one of your pictures, I see a piece of stainless that looks about the
dimensions of the deck hatch. Did you bolt this into the deck opening and
glass over the top of it?Pics:
https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=562&highlight=windlassThanks Tor!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 2:57 PM, Silver Heels wrote:
Quote:Pat,My chain locker drain holes angle down from the inside to the outside and
are also angled slightly from forward (inside) aft (outside). Then I
shielded the outside holes with small stainless clamshell covers (photo
attached) to further reduce the likelihood of seawater being forced up into
the locker underway. As it is, little or no water gets in through those
drain holes. If a bit does get in, it runs right back out again. I had
thought about a watertight bulkhead when I did the project, but figured I’d
do that only if it turned out to be necessary. It hasn’t.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I removed the v-drive from the raw water cooling circuit. I did not do
anything like put oil in the cooling jacket or anything like that.
One thing to keep in mind in my case is I’m in the Pacific NW where the
water is cold and hence my bilge is very cool.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 9:12 AM, Seawater wrote:
I have been about 4 years without any cooling on my V drive, and have done
well over 7000 miles, quite a bit of that motoring. No problems. I think
Rich may be right, must Be degrees C. The unit is never more than warm to
the touch, mayge 140-150 degrees F. I have an alarm if it gets over 200
degrees F.Patrick, do you have cooling?
Walter
SV Madness
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Don before you go, thank you so much for the excellent survey on my boat and
all your assistance here in the mailing list.Please do stay in touch!
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 3:43 PM, Syringa wrote:
I just sold Syringa to Herb & Laura Moore. I hope they injoy her as much as
I have over the last few years. They are changing her name to Far From
Turtle so be on the lookout for them. Please drop my name from the 424
forum.
Don Gardner
S/V Syringa #124/)+/)+~=:)
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I love Gig Harbor, we can hold it there, then you won’t have to far to swim.
😉-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Aug 26, 2010 at 9:55 PM, Lee Yonkers <> wrote:
Quote:I’d do the Puget Sound rally sans boat. I am in Gig Harbor but my 424 is in
Georgia.Lee
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
