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I’ve been to a lot of rigger talks and they all talk about a 10-15 year life
of stainless steel rigging. 10 in So California and 15 in the Pac NW (rain
and low UV is good).Do you have $4500 dollars you can afford to spend?
Will it make you sleep better at night (or sea)?That’s how I’d think about it.
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Aug 26, 2010 at 2:36 PM, pat noordsij <> wrote:
Alan and other fresh water sailors who went to salt,
Did you replace your standing rigging before going? Doe’s standing rigging
looks great but it’s 29 yrs old. Fresh water is very kind to a boat. We
are worried that the moment it sees salt it will all die but then I don’t
want to switch it out – if it really isn’t necessary. There are other
things I could spend money on.Opinions? ( I know there is no shortage of these out there)
thanks
– pat
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Yes we want the pictures. 😉
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Aug 26, 2010 at 4:46 AM, Alan <> wrote:
Quote:I have pictures of the area where the strut is attached to the hull if
anyone is interested. I would have to say that it is pretty substantial
design. The area is actually molded into the hull. After the strut is bolted
to the hull ( sealed with silicone) there appears to be about 3/4″ of solid
resin there. The last 3/8 – 1/2″ is built up with what looks like fairing
compound. Because it’s not faired out too far (pretty much a square recess)
is why there appears to be a constant crack around the area.
The strut went to a place in Baltimore called Miller Island to be
straightened. The strut is a LARGE HEAVY casting.
AlanAlan
— On Wed, 8/25/10, Linus Martinez <> wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I never saw the case get over 124F as we motored 9 hours straight the other
day. I was using a laser temp gauge to check various spots on the case.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Aug 26, 2010 at 9:19 AM, wrote:
Quote:130 doesn’t sound right, must be130 degC (266F). I have an oil temperate
gauge in my car and it typically shows 240..250 degF. My motorcycle runs at
260F. Odd that their gearboxes use English fasteners but they use use
Celsius.Rich
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Here’s one of those promised pics of the fuel gauge removed
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4927667684/-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Wed, Aug 25, 2010 at 6:57 AM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
I have a Tank Tender on my boat and just added a probe to the new fuel
tank under the cockpit sole. What I like about this is that it uses no
electricity and is dead accurate (inches of diesel).It would be easy to make your own “tank tender” for much less than they
sell them for but I have yet to find a gauge that is measured in both inches
of diesel and inches of water. (an inch of diesel = 0.6 inches of water, so
the calculation is easy anyway, just like converting Km to miles).Pete
On 8/25/2010 12:04 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
I do have the original tank (no leaks yet) and I’m going to replace the
gauge with a sender which I can at least attach a remote gauge to or hook
into my NMEA 2000 network. Laying on the cockpit floor, putting water on
the
scratched up viewing glass and using a flashlight is not my idea of a good
time.Thanks Rich and John for the pics. Richard I measured my tank at 24″ where
the gauge was and you had your’s made 1″ less deep at 23″ was it also an
1″
less deep at 17″ in the aft end (looking at your PDF drawing.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/fuelTank.pdf) such that the
original
tank was 18″?I think with this info I’ll be able to pick my sender and get it
calibrated
properly.Thanks!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Aug 24, 2010 at 7:38 PM, Pete Dubler<>
wrote:If you have the original tank, I might still have the gauge from my old
tank if that will help you out.
Pete
On 8/24/2010 7:34 PM, Patrick_Seattle wrote:
I’m replying to this old thread where I figured out my fuel tank gauge
didn’t work. https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=832
I pulled it out today. I love having the right tool and I did not. I had
to borrow a longer screwdriver so now I know need to buy one of those!Anyway, the unit is of the kind with the arm that floats off to one
side.
The initial tube is 12″ long with a fulcrum and the float arm is 11-1/4″
long. The dial says Rochester Gauges http://www.rochestergauges.com/Dial
No. 5-601 (not listed there shocking).The tank is 24″ deep at the point of the gauge. Can anyone validate my
assumption that the tank is indeed just a rectangular box and even on
the
bottom? Just wanted to double check because that will affect the sender
I
buy as they come in lengths.You know me, I’ll have pics of all this later.
Thanks a lot!
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I do have the original tank (no leaks yet) and I’m going to replace the
gauge with a sender which I can at least attach a remote gauge to or hook
into my NMEA 2000 network. Laying on the cockpit floor, putting water on the
scratched up viewing glass and using a flashlight is not my idea of a good
time.Thanks Rich and John for the pics. Richard I measured my tank at 24″ where
the gauge was and you had your’s made 1″ less deep at 23″ was it also an 1″
less deep at 17″ in the aft end (looking at your PDF drawing.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/fuelTank.pdf) such that the original
tank was 18″?I think with this info I’ll be able to pick my sender and get it calibrated
properly.Thanks!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Aug 24, 2010 at 7:38 PM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
If you have the original tank, I might still have the gauge from my old
tank if that will help you out.Pete
On 8/24/2010 7:34 PM, Patrick_Seattle wrote:
I’m replying to this old thread where I figured out my fuel tank gauge
didn’t work. https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=832I pulled it out today. I love having the right tool and I did not. I had
to borrow a longer screwdriver so now I know need to buy one of those!Anyway, the unit is of the kind with the arm that floats off to one side.
The initial tube is 12″ long with a fulcrum and the float arm is 11-1/4″
long. The dial says Rochester Gauges http://www.rochestergauges.com/ Dial
No. 5-601 (not listed there shocking).The tank is 24″ deep at the point of the gauge. Can anyone validate my
assumption that the tank is indeed just a rectangular box and even on the
bottom? Just wanted to double check because that will affect the sender I
buy as they come in lengths.You know me, I’ll have pics of all this later.
Thanks a lot!
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I’m replying to this old thread where I figured out my fuel tank gauge didn’t work. https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=832
I pulled it out today. I love having the right tool and I did not. I had to borrow a longer screwdriver so now I know need to buy one of those!
Anyway, the unit is of the kind with the arm that floats off to one side. The initial tube is 12″ long with a fulcrum and the float arm is 11-1/4″ long. The dial says Rochester Gauges http://www.rochestergauges.com/ Dial No. 5-601 (not listed there shocking).
The tank is 24″ deep at the point of the gauge. Can anyone validate my assumption that the tank is indeed just a rectangular box and even on the bottom? Just wanted to double check because that will affect the sender I buy as they come in lengths.
You know me, I’ll have pics of all this later.
Thanks a lot!
-pOwners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!You could try to get it re-galvanized. But it would depend on
how corroded it is if that is worth it or wise. I looked into it here in
Seattle but I got very wishy washy answers from the re-galvanizing shop. I
think they basically just didn’t want to deal with a small project. You
might have better luck though.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Aug 24, 2010 at 10:10 AM, wrote:
Quote:Yes, thanks I know. My gypsy is made for 3/8HT. I’d have to replace the
drum with one for 5/16 HT. I just checked the distributor. They want a
little over $300 for a new gypsy for a Lofrans Tigress. Sounds like a lot of
money for a simple casting to me. I’ll have to think this over. I sleep
pretty well with the size chain I already use. In any case I need new chain.
My chain is looking pretty sad after over 25 years of use.Rich
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!You gotta love the easy fixes!
-p
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 21, 2010, at 13:53, “John Sommer” <> wrote:
Quote:Turns out my “hot” running engine was due to stuck thermometer….I picked up a NAPA #139….the boat is now running 180.John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!OK, I’ll try to reply to each of the individuals at once just to keep this
shorter.*Alan : Unabated*
Do you have any pictures or drawings of where the chain goes once it’s below
the windlass?*Quent : **Clairebuoyant*
You are saying aft of the water tank, I assume you mean forward of the
watertank?*Phil : Aurora*
I looked at your setup, but your hawse pipe is separate from the windlass
base, mine is integral so I have different problems. I was curious about
your setup though. I had no idea how the chain made that leap from the
windlass to the hawsepipe.*Wavemaker*
Where are the pics? I don’t see them in the gallery:
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/
Yes, the lower locker is the are forward of the v-berth (i.e. the hole in
this pic: http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4903821270/)*Bob : Pelican*
I saw the pics on your site where you added the drain to windlass. Do you
have any pics of the hole setup and your two tier locker?*Tor : Silver Heels*
OK, you didn’t reply but you were mentioned. I really like your setup, and
originally I was going to copy you, but I decided I need to reign in the
scope on this project (no pun intended). 😉Sounds like no one has zero castling problems so maybe I’ll just stop
worrying so much about that.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 1:19 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:This is a blog post I just put up, if anyone has thoughts on windlass
location I’d really welcome the inputhttp://www.deepplaya.com/post/Making-a-windlass-plan-of-attack-e28093-Step-one-Pontificate.aspx
I’m especially interested in the setups on Syringa, Meridian and Parallax
or others who have windlass mounted outisde the confines of the anchor
locker, but have angled hawse pipes to redirect the chain through the locker
into the chain locker below. Do you have problems with the chain running
cleanly?Thanks!
-p
—
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I’ve been a doing a lot of low power fanless DC powered PC research to use a
navigation and comm (hooked to the SSB) computer, that’s how I stumbled on
that.
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 12:37 PM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
Those 80 watt or larger dc-dc supplies would do the job. Very nice. Good
find Patrick.Would want to check the RFI on these (put a handheld scanner next to it and
see where it interferes).Pete
On 8/19/2010 1:15 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
There are a lot of good instructions on how to build these on the
internets.They
look pretty easy and might be fun to do.
Another alternative for “perfect” power is look into the DC to DC power
supplies that the mobile auto computer kids are using:
http://www.mini-box.com/s.nl/sc.8/category.13/.f
http://store.mp3car.com/Power_Products_s/2.htm-p
<http://www.mini-box.com/s.nl/sc.8/category.13/.f>
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 8:04 AM, John Stevenson<
wrote:
Quent,
I made a voltage regulator from Radio Shack parts (<$5) back in the 80s.
I’m not an electronics expert, so I used a circuit design in the 12V
Doctor’s Project Book. I doubt that book is still in print, but you
might
be able to find it on eBay. That is the one of his books I do not have
onboard. I must have loaned it to a “friend”. I checked on Amazon.com
and
they do not have it.
The voltage regulator I built will do what you asked for, but it may not
do
everything you need. That is it will maintain 12v output as long as the
input voltage is 12v or higher. When the input voltage drops below 12v
so
does the output. You might contact Lind Electronics to see if they have
some thing that will work for you. They primarily make DC power adapters
for laptops (e.g., 12v to 18v), but they might have something that just
does
12v-12v.
There is always the option of running it off an inverter.On Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 10:39 AM, quent<> wrote:
Folks, this is a request for help from the electronics experts in the
group.
I just found at HH Greg some combination 13″ ED TV/ DVD players with all
the bells and whistles like PC input for $100. The power supply is a
converter that provides 12v DC @ 3 amps. I’d like to power them off the
boat batteries, but I’m a little worried that the charging voltage(14.4v)
might be too high. Manufacturer (Curtis) was not helpful.
Can someone tell me where to get or how to make a device that will limitDC
power to 12 volts?
Thanks!
Quent_______________________________________________
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!There are a lot of good instructions on how to build these on the
internets.
http://www.google.com/search?q=make+DC+voltage+regulator&btnG=Search&hl=en&rlz=1C1GGLS_enUS359US359&sa=2<http://www.google.com/search?q=make+DC+voltage+regulator&btnG=Search&hl=en&rlz=1C1GGLS_enUS359US359&sa=2>They
look pretty easy and might be fun to do.Another alternative for “perfect” power is look into the DC to DC power
supplies that the mobile auto computer kids are using:
http://www.mini-box.com/s.nl/sc.8/category.13/.f
http://store.mp3car.com/Power_Products_s/2.htm-p
<http://www.mini-box.com/s.nl/sc.8/category.13/.f>
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 8:04 AM, John Stevenson <>wrote:
Quent,
I made a voltage regulator from Radio Shack parts (<$5) back in the 80s.
I’m not an electronics expert, so I used a circuit design in the 12V
Doctor’s Project Book. I doubt that book is still in print, but you might
be able to find it on eBay. That is the one of his books I do not have
onboard. I must have loaned it to a “friend”. I checked on Amazon.com and
they do not have it.
The voltage regulator I built will do what you asked for, but it may not do
everything you need. That is it will maintain 12v output as long as the
input voltage is 12v or higher. When the input voltage drops below 12v so
does the output. You might contact Lind Electronics to see if they have
some thing that will work for you. They primarily make DC power adapters
for laptops (e.g., 12v to 18v), but they might have something that just
does
12v-12v.
There is always the option of running it off an inverter.On Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 10:39 AM, quent <> wrote:
Folks, this is a request for help from the electronics experts in the
group.
I just found at HH Greg some combination 13″ ED TV/ DVD players with all
the bells and whistles like PC input for $100. The power supply is a
converter that provides 12v DC @ 3 amps. I’d like to power them off the
boat batteries, but I’m a little worried that the charging voltage(14.4v)
might be too high. Manufacturer (Curtis) was not helpful.
Can someone tell me where to get or how to make a device that will limitDC
power to 12 volts?
Thanks!
Quent_______________________________________________
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—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!My panels were put on by the PO. Port and Starboard they are mounted on a
single rail which is ~30″ tall (guess). The rail is thru bolted the cockpit
combing on the foreward leg like a leg of the stern pulpit and pipe clamped
to the stern pulpit on it’s aft leg (I hate that part). The panels
themselves are attached to the rail with pipe clamps. They can be flip up
and down and that is controlled with some line (I also hate that part).You can make most of that out in this picture.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/3705269546/-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 6:50 AM, JodyandStephen wrote:
Does anyone have any plans or examples of inexpensive ways of attaching
solar panels to the side or aft of a ketch rig 424?We dont have davits at this stage, but if anybody knows of any going cheap
or an inexpensive faribcator please let us know. We are in Georgia USA.
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I’ve not dug into it yet, I’ve been thinking about my windlass all day more
on that to come as I’d welcome your collective advice.-=p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 9:38 AM, Syringa wrote:
Patrick
Did you trace the wires? if so let me know and I will try to help.
Don Gardner
S/V Syringa #124/)+/)+~=:)
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!It might be a bad attitude detector. I was a bit grumpy at the time. 😉
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 5:12 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Could it be a sun spot detector?
On 8/16/2010 5:18 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
I added GFI outlets on board, but they were not even in the circuit when
the
light was on; all individual breakers were off.My working theory is the light should always be on and that it’s just
flakey.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 2:59 PM, norris larson<
wrote:
Quote:One possibility. Do both you and the shore power have GFIs? shore power
in
Nove Scotia and Cape Breton does. When I plugged in to one of their
docks, a
shore side circuit breaker blew. Maybe there is some other effect at your
dock related to this issue.Norris Larson, Easy Reach, #216, on the market.
— On Fri, 8/13/10, Patrick wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I added GFI outlets on board, but they were not even in the circuit when the
light was on; all individual breakers were off.My working theory is the light should always be on and that it’s just
flakey.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 2:59 PM, norris larson wrote:
Quote:One possibility. Do both you and the shore power have GFIs? shore power in
Nove Scotia and Cape Breton does. When I plugged in to one of their docks, a
shore side circuit breaker blew. Maybe there is some other effect at your
dock related to this issue.Norris Larson, Easy Reach, #216, on the market.
— On Fri, 8/13/10, Patrick wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
