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#175 – Aluminum mizzen step, steel mast step.
Had mine replaced when we re-did the rigging. Shot of the original:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4099561969/-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Sat, Oct 30, 2010 at 8:57 PM, dave jones wrote:
Quote:Tor et al,I know that on Doris E., hull number 178 both the mizzen and main steps are
aluminum. Per chance as with many other details there were changes made
during the production run.Dave and Pat
On 10/30/10 7:40 PM, SilverHeels wrote:
Quote:Ah HA!. You may be right. It has been a few years. I know Pearson used
steel
for the mainmast step in my boat because I can still see it and remember
cleaning and repainting it with state-of-the-art coatings, which have held
up perfectly. If your mizzen mast step is aluminum then heat probably
wouldn’t help, but in that case the bond may not be so severe. Let us know
how it turns out.Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!That looks pretty awesome Tor!
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Oct 19, 2010 at 2:40 PM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
That’s very cool, Tor. I may have to move to the aft cabin so I can have a
workbench that doesn’t include my knees and a board. That’s an excellent
use of space!Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!My transducer is located just forward of and to starboard of the maststep.
My knotmeter (didn’t work & was very
old<http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4869441062/>)
was accessible via the hatch in the v-berth floor. It was a little to the
port side. I removed it and glassed this closed.I was waiting for airmat’s DST900 (no log wheel, cob instrument) but it
apparenlty is on hold, so I’m going to put in the Maretron
DST100<http://www.maretron.com/products/dst100.php>I already bought at
my next haul out.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 11:32 AM, James Roberts <>wrote:
Quote:I put the transducer in the forward cabin close to the centerline and it
has worked fine for me. the hull thickness is about one inch. I have the
cutout on the boat in Trinidad. Jim 424 cutter #219— wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I had some contact with the manufacturer as labeled on my original tank.
Here’s the contact info if anyone needs it.Daniela Fiori Jones
Florida Marine Tanks, Inc
120 Peter Gill Rd
Henderson, NC 27536
305-620-9030 x330-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 5:40 PM, joe shimkonis wrote:
Quote:Hi Pete,
I am really interested in your tank fabrication.I have a guy here that
is
really good with boats and fiberglas and could probably fabricate a tank
for
me.When will you share something with the association? Also- with all the
work
you’re doing- coming back to the East Coast? soon?
Fuel tank-HERB- the tank can be cut up without violating the cradle.I had
mine
sawzawed and had 2 tanks fabricated in Florida from the original mfgr.It
allowed
me not to pull the engine.________________________________
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Actually know what I would do.. repalce your depth sounder with a combo
Depth Speed Temp unit. One less hole.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 12:04 PM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
For the speed, you don’t need a fairing block because its rotation doesn’t
depend on vertical placement. True for depth, though, as it has to point
down when the boat is at rest.Depth can be farther up the hull where thinner, perhaps 3/4″ thick,
outboard
the mast about 18″Bob
On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 3:00 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Bou you need to account for the thickness of the hull + the fairing
block.
Here’s an example from some friends of mine here in Seattle.
http://www.svbellastar.com/2010/08/always-hole.html-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com<http://www.deepplaya.com/>On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 11:43 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Less than 2.5″. Probably around 1-1/4 to 1-1/2, depending on how low
you
go.
Bob
On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 2:28 PM, kalinowski <
wrote:
Does anyone know what the hull thickness is in the bow under the
floor
access panel located in the forward cabin? I assume this is the
place
where
everyone mounts their transducers (at least that is where mine are).
I am going to install the Tack Tick wireless system on the boat and
their
standard transducers are for hulls up to 2.125″ thick. Or course, I
can’t
measure this till the boat’s on the hard and the old ones are out
(I’m
not
that quick). I know Pearson built thick hulls and I’m trying to
preorder
stuff before the boat is hauled.
Mahalo
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Bou you need to account for the thickness of the hull + the fairing block.
Here’s an example from some friends of mine here in Seattle.
http://www.svbellastar.com/2010/08/always-hole.html-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 11:43 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Less than 2.5″. Probably around 1-1/4 to 1-1/2, depending on how low you
go.Bob
On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 2:28 PM, kalinowski <
wrote:
Does anyone know what the hull thickness is in the bow under the floor
access panel located in the forward cabin? I assume this is the placewhere
everyone mounts their transducers (at least that is where mine are).
I am going to install the Tack Tick wireless system on the boat and their
standard transducers are for hulls up to 2.125″ thick. Or course, Ican’t
measure this till the boat’s on the hard and the old ones are out (I’m
not
that quick). I know Pearson built thick hulls and I’m trying to preorder
stuff before the boat is hauled.Mahalo
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Atlanta/Honolulu_______________________________________________
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!If your tank isn’t leaking, I woudl check out these guys in Seattle.
Probably extend the thank another 15 years:
http://www.felixmarine.net/article-sealing-fuel-tanks.html-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Fri, Oct 15, 2010 at 10:32 PM, Herbc wrote:
look thru post for fuel tanks and trying to get a handle on the issue. Took
a look at the pdf that was good info. Some references to cutting some on the
cross beam and my PO Don mentioned cutting out the old tank and reinstalling
2 tanks.
Had a fellow down today to look at the situation and he will contact some
fabricators and work up a price.
Are there some pics I missed or any suggestions on how to proceed.thanks in advance.
Herb
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I wouldn’t buy a new boat without a sea trial, let alone a 30 year old boat.
On my sea trial we found out the heat exchange was gummed up because the
engine overheated!-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 7:00 PM, James Scarbrough <
> wrote:Hello Pearson owners,
I am seriously considering purchasing a Pearson 424 and given some
constraints may not be able to sea trial the boat before placing an offer.
I
have done my homework and believe the Pearson 424 Ketch is a great option
for my needs. I live in the San Francisco Bay area and would love to test
sail and discuss the boat. I will buy lunch/dinner/drinks for anyone
willing
to go on a sail with me! Please let me know if you are interested.Thanks!
Jamie
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Lots of pics:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/tags/portlight/Blog Posts:
http://deepplaya.com/post/New-Portlights.aspx
http://deepplaya.com/post/Evolution-of-a-Porthole.aspx
http://deepplaya.com/post/Setbacks-and-Problems.aspx-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Oct 7, 2010 at 6:01 PM, Philippe Fontaine <> wrote:
Quote:Pat, Patrick & Allen
Thank you all for your replies.
Phil
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!You just missed my ealier reply.
When we did out initial replacement we added 1/4″ plywood to the
interior to cover teak damage. The holes we drilled to allow the outer
frame to sit flush to the exterior of the hull went through the hull
and the original 1/4″ teak plywood. So your original thickness is
approximately 1-1/2″I would use the teak spacers and we go back and redo what had already
done (they leaked and our choice to not use marine grade plywood was
revealed as penny wise and a ton foolish) we are using the spacers and
it’s going very well where we used them in the head.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Oct 7, 2010 at 1:55 PM, Philippe Fontaine <> wrote:
Quote:Hi Pat,
I also am considering the NFM SS ports and called Michael Lux as you
suggested to Joe. The boat show price I received for six 5×12 ports was
$1529.10 which he said was a $37 per port saving. The $1529.10 price works
out to be $254.85 each. Just curious about the source of the $230 price you
mentioned in your earlier message.? Second question concerns cabin wall
thickness. Do you (or anyone else) know what that is? Alternatively, can
someone who has purchased these tell me whether teak spacers were required
to make up the correct thickness? Michael Lux mentioned needing somewhere
around 3/4 inch thickness. I’d be surprized if our cabins are that thick.
Thanks,
Phil fontaine – Aurora
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!We’re finding that using the teak rings on the inside is making things
line up better, with just the thickness of the hull and the interior
wood I think we’re right on the minimum in terms of thickness.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Oct 7, 2010 at 7:49 AM, <> wrote:
Call Michael lux this aft 360-821-1228
He’ll set up a quote with you.
– pat
Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!You might want to check out the list of upgrades owners have made.
It’s not super current though:
http://www.deepplaya.com/page/Pearson-Upgrades.aspx and the project
category on my blog:
http://www.deepplaya.com/category/Projects.aspxShort of that, you’re getting into a great boat, with a known pedigree
and an active owner’s group willing to help!-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Sun, Oct 3, 2010 at 9:43 AM, Info @ pearson424 wrote:
Quote:
Original Message
Subject: Looking for P 424
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!That one is s/v Gypsy.
Looks like he had some issues with the deck since he took what looks like a
stair banister, bolted it to the salon table and is using it to support the
deck aft of the hatch. That or maybe its for pole dancing. 😉http://www.flickr.com/photos/54178164@N03/5016297602/
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Sep 30, 2010 at 12:45 PM, quent <> wrote:
Here’s one on Craigslist:
http://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/1968448908.html
Quent
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I think you’re pioneering new teritory with the lasdrop. I’ve not heard
anyone mention them.-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Pic of the splices with the thimbles.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4638382720/-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 8:31 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Quote:He, something I can answer….As part of my re-rig I replaced the wire pendants, existing blocks and
lines as follows:26′ standing pendants of 3/16″ Amsteel with eye splices in each with a SS
thimble on both ends.
Bottom end of the pendant has a Garhauer 25-14US Single Block with Becket
The fiddle blockes were replaced with Garhauer 25-05US Fiddle with cam
cleat and snap shackleI dont’ have the lengths for my running part of the stays in my
spreadsheet, but I used 3/8″ XLS Yacht braid with an eye splice in one end
to attach it to the becket on the end of the pendant.I wish I made my pendants a little shorter as the thimbles touch my bimini
structure. I’ll probably shorten them up when I’m bored some day and the
clinking is driving me crazy.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 5:59 PM, SilverHeels wrote:
Quote:Herbc,Welcome to the Home of the Elite. Those “adjustable” backstays on the
P424’s
mizzen are called “running backstays.” Basically, you leave the leeward
stay
loose and keep the windward stay pulled as tight as you can by hand using
the double-purchase blocks provided. The taught “running back” keeps the
mizzen mast from toppling forward in a blow. The slack leeward running
backstay allows the mizzen boom to swing out on the leeward side as far as
it needs to for that tack. As you tack you let the taught running backstay
run free and pull the other one tight so that on the new tack you once
again
have the windward running backstay taught and the leeward one loose.Personally I’d have preferred it if Pearson/Shaw had come up with a less
demanding system back there. Most mizzen masts are simply fix-stayed so
they’re self-tending when tacking. Not so with the P424.Reef early,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424, #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
