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Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorI was reading about the different sailcloths in the quotes here are the links I found for each:
Hong Kong Sails quotes a variety of fabric weights in ounces, but no brands
Ullman doesn’t call out the fabric in the quote, but the guy mentioned their cloth: http://www.ullmansailssandiego.com/sailing-news-san-diego-southern-california.php
Far East Sails quotes Contender Supercruise cloth: http://www.contendersailcloth.com/wovens.asp (click super cruise on the left hand side)
Quantum quotes Challenge High Modulous Weave, not sure which: http://www.challengesailcloth.com/high_modulus/high_mod.htm
Rush Neil Pryde quotes Challenge Performance Cruise in the mizzen http://www.challengesailcloth.com/cruise/perf_cruise.htm and Contender Supercruise in the main http://www.contendersailcloth.com/wovens.asp (click super cruise on the left hand side)-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorOne thing I asked the Quantum guy when I spoke with him was what should look at to evaluate sail makers? What differentiates your product from the cheaper ones I see listed in the backs of magazines? The main points he said you should look at when comparing sails were:
- Quality of the cloth. Even if you’re just going with “Dacron”, not all Dacron is the same. There are varying qualities and weights
- The size of the patches at the reinforcing points (head, tack, clew and reefing points) as well as along leach, luff and foot.
- The quality of the headboard in main and mizzen
- The quality of the stitching (type, number of rows, etc..) There’s more to it than that, but I forget the specifics for evaluation
- The quality of the hardware built into the sail, slides, webbing, reefing eyes, hardware, etc. Again, see stitching
- Access to lofts around the world for warranty work. I believe Quantum will do Warranty repair at your closest loft, not at just the one you bought from. If you buy from a single shop (regardless of Asia or not) you’d have to fly your sails back to that shop.
I just wanted to share what he told me when I asked him about using other vendors as opposed to Quantum, including offshore shops. I’m not endorsing any one shop.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorI got mine off with lots and lots of scraping with a paint scraper and then lots and lots more scraping. You need to take out most of the teak little cover panels in the cabinets and over the chain plates to get t all out. I did not pull down the cable tray. What didn’t pull out I cut off flush with a utility knife. I then painted most of the areas (lockers and cabinets) with white epoxy. I plan to lay in some reflectix insulation (the shiny bubble wrap stuff) in those lockerscabinets. If it needs any adhesive at all I’ll use a single row of velcro along the top. The others which are “natural” right now (aft cabin and V-berth), I plan to beef-up with a layer of core and fiberglass and then put ash-batons over that.
Here we are scraping and some finished shots of the painted areas: http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/sets/72157605240687273/
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorI definitely plan to beef up my v-berth hull and then put in the ash strips. I not only had the tabbing which needed to be redone on in the v-berth but also on the starboard settee in the salon as well. That’s more of a function of poor bond between fiberglass and wood though. I did notice when cleaning my water tanks on the same side that I have a small section internal to the tank that is free as well. It doesn’t leak and I’m not 100% sure who I’d even get in ther to repair or if its warranted. This is probably building up to be enough glass work that it would be better to just have someone else do it.
Repost on the v-berth suggestion from Bill Shaw:
Here’s the reply you were looking for:
http://www.pearsoncurrent.com/tpcarchive/Vol5/tpc-5-2.htmI have a small yacht maintenance business in Gulfport, MS and have the privilege of taking care of three P424s. I believe all three owners are members of your Association. One of the owners wants us to beef up the v-berth to prevent oil canning. I’ve read several articles in The Current on this problem, but I am not sure if I should lay some thicker glass on the inside of the hull or seek another solution. I know the shelves and v-berth need reinforcing where they come in contact with the hull. It seems to me that the hull is very thin under the shelf down to the v-berth. Any ideas that you might have would be most helpful.
— Brian Welch
I would recommend the following between the underside of the shelf and the top of the V-berth:
1. Sand the inside of the hull to remove any wax, glue, etc.
2. Apply one layer of 1.5 oz. mat in this area. Catalyze the resin for a slow cure to keep it cool to prevent print through.
3. Before the mat cures, wet the panel of 3/8″ thick balsa with resin that will go against the hull and apply pressure to the balsa for a good bond. Note that you should taper all 4 edges of the balsa over a width of 2″.)
4. After this lay up has cured, apply one layer of 1.5 oz. mat and over this one layer of 1.8 oz. woven roving. This should stiffen the area considerably.-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorYa gotta love the USCG database. The owner lives in Lahaina, but its hard to tell if he actually moved the boat or not since the Hailing Port is still Olympia.
She was previously SPRAY and Morning Rain.Vessel Name: MISCHIEF MAKER USCG Doc. No.: 649044 Vessel Service: RECREATIONAL IMO Number: * Trade Indicator: Recreational Call Sign: * Hull Material: FRP (FIBERGLASS) Hull Number: PEA59173M82A Ship Builder: PEARSON YACHTS DIVISION Year Built: 1981
Length (ft.): 42.3 Hailing Port: OLYMPIA WA Hull Depth (ft.): 9 Owner: TIMOTHY D PHILLIPS
3626 L HONOAPIILANI RD #C112
LAHAINA, HI 96761 Hull Breadth (ft.): 13 Gross Tonnage: 24 Net Tonnage: 22 Documentation Issuance Date: April 03, 2008 Documentation Expiration Date: April 30, 2009 Previous Vessel Names: SPRAY
MORNING RAIN
Previous Vessel Owners: ROBERT F MCCLELLAN
DENIS J WEBER
JAMES C KLOTZ
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
Spectator@quent wrote:
Re bow reenforcement, and oil canning. Some years ago, the issue was raised in the NPYOA newsletter and Bill Shaw, the Pearson designer addressed it. I’ll see if I can find a copy. If I remember correctly, he recommended additional layup of a layer of mat, 1/2″ balsa core then a couple layers of mat and woven roving.
Quent Kinderman
Clairebuoyant, sloop, #132Here’s the reply you were looking for:
http://www.pearsoncurrent.com/tpcarchive/Vol5/tpc-5-2.htmI have a small yacht maintenance business in Gulfport, MS and have the privilege of taking care of three P424s. I believe all three owners are members of your Association. One of the owners wants us to beef up the v-berth to prevent oil canning. I’ve read several articles in The Current on this problem, but I am not sure if I should lay some thicker glass on the inside of the hull or seek another solution. I know the shelves and v-berth need reinforcing where they come in contact with the hull. It seems to me that the hull is very thin under the shelf down to the v-berth. Any ideas that you might have would be most helpful.
— Brian Welch
I would recommend the following between the underside of the shelf and the top of the V-berth:
1. Sand the inside of the hull to remove any wax, glue, etc.
2. Apply one layer of 1.5 oz. mat in this area. Catalyze the resin for a slow cure to keep it cool to prevent print through.
3. Before the mat cures, wet the panel of 3/8″ thick balsa with resin that will go against the hull and apply pressure to the balsa for a good bond. Note that you should taper all 4 edges of the balsa over a width of 2″.)
4. After this lay up has cured, apply one layer of 1.5 oz. mat and over this one layer of 1.8 oz. woven roving. This should stiffen the area considerably.
On a side not apparenly the entire PearsonCurrent site is now open to the public.
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorHey no fair, I only though we were supposed to talk about working on boats. Now you’re going to actually sail yours and make the rest of us feel bad.
Damn, now its a race to get out there and do some sailing. I guess it’s true any time you gave more than one boat, its a race. 🙂Congrats on the passage planning, do take pics and video if possible. Can’t wait to hear about your trip!!
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorHere’s the two pages with the basics on rig tuning from Brion Toss’ book. I think its a must have…
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorI’ve been looking into all of these thin, flexible, finished on one side, pressboardhardboardetc materials. The main thing in my research that I learned is that lots of these materials have urea formaldehyde resin and may release formaldehyde vapors (off-gassing like you hear about in new construction or the mobile home they used in Katrina). I would check into that for the material you’re looking at. The Jubilee beadboard made by Georgia Pacific at home Depot and Lowe’s DOES contain urea formaldehyde. They have other products (the ones that look like tile) which do not. If you don’t care about that then I guess your only concerns will be the durability and water resistance of the material. If the product recommends you can use it in showersbathroom you’re probably safe, you could probably go more for straight paneling if you trust all your hardware in the cabin top is well bedded. Mine are not yet. 😉
I’m currently looking at Nantucket Beadboard’s EFP based product. I have a few questions about it still and I’ not sure how much it costs, but it looks my current best option.
http://www.beadboard.com/products/Substrates.html
EFP
The EFP Series 100 & 200 are environmentally friendly products that conform to formaldehyde content and emissions standards set by the California Air Resources Board (CARB). Series 100 interior grade MDF products meet CARB Phase 1 compliance regulations; Series 200 interior grade MDF products meet CARB Phase 2 compliance regulations.
That’s where my research is taking me, I’m in no way an expert though, so do compare it with your own.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorI have a pretty good list of all the projects everyone has done with links to the individual projects as best as I could find them: http://www.deepplaya.com/page/Pearson-Upgrades.aspx
That’s my open ended brain storm list.-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorFrom what I’ve seen on my boat… if you have the beckson plastic portholes the screws are likely source, as are the screws inthe eyebrow trim. I’ll be removing the eyebrow on Deep Playa.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorOoo he did replacecover up the cabin top liner as well. I totally missed that
Hey Thor, what material did you use?
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorThe 3×17… I still need to double check some measurements (My order won’t be processed for 45 days) but I think they will fit just fine. The full size of the 3×17 is 20-1/2 x 6-3/4.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorYesterday at the Seattle Boat Show, I bought all new Stainless Steel ports from New Found Metals. I won’t start the project till Spring, but when I do I’ll be looking to sell the old ones at a reasonable price.
The six 5×12 plastic Beckson portholes (I don’t know if these are original or not) may not all survive the removal process. The four 4×17.5 cast aluminum (?) portholes will probably pop out just fine.I don’t plan on starting till at least April, so if your time-driven don’t rely on me. If you’re not, let me know what you need.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorRich you’ve just described what I think is the ideal location. When I get to this project I will definitely ping for more details!
Thanks,
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
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