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Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorI wonder why they didn’t do that to begin with? Is there something special about the length of the drop and ability to then pass water quickly?
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorThis is the manufacturer’s web site with pics:
http://www.nickleatlantic.com/Basically it’s a mini-suspension system that fits under your mattress and supports it better as well as allows airflow.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorI was thinking about how to improve that area, I will definitely be
copying you. Thanks for sharing the pics!-p
Sent from my phoneOn Mar 14, 2009, at 11:50, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Don,
Your wish is my command. No, I didn’t connect the doors because
then I’d have to make a new door, door frame and strengthen the top
some. Attached is a couple of pictures. My water heater is aft of
these lockers and behind that are two 4D batteries.Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorSearch the archive for porthole and you’ll see a bunch of info about the ports I ordered from New Found Metals.
-p
Sent from my phoneOn Mar 14, 2009, at 10:40, Jack P Clarke < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Sorry for the unclarity of my post. Xanadu IV is a 1981 ketch with, I believe six original Bomar plastic ports in the V berth and the salon. The ones in the galley, aft berth, head and shower are metal framed, opening ports that I believe are Bomar also with plastic lenses that are all foggy. The ones that I’m referring to are the galley, aft berth, head and shower ports. I think that all of the ports on Xanadu IV are original.
Jack Clarke
Xanadu IV
On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 1:14 PM, John Stevenson <()> wrote:
Jack,
I don’t think I have any plastic in any of my ports. Not sure which 4 aft ports you are talking about. Pearson and POs changed a lot on these boats over the years. Maybe you should identify what type of ports you have that you want to change.My aft ports are fixed, glass in aluminum frames with a gasket seal.
John
On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 1:07 PM, Jack P Clarke <()> wrote:
Hello all,
Has anyone changed the plastic in the 4 aft ports, rather than changing the entire port? I don’t know if this can be done, but it looks like it’s just a gasket holding the plastic in place. If it could be done and replaced with tempered glass cut to size, it would certainly be cheaper and less hassle.
Has anyone explored this possibility?
Jack Clarke
Xanadu IV
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorIf you go to http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Riggers-Apprentice-Techniques-Traditional/dp/0070648409
and click Look Inside and then search for running backstay the 4th result (Page 138) in talking about shroud sizes he says:“… Also Cruisers often make all their shrouds and stays out of the same size wire so they only have to carry one size of spare wire, turnbuckle, clevis pin, etc. An exception is sometimes made for running backstays pendants which can be made of vinyl coated 7×7 or my favorite, Specta/Technorablend rope (see pg 22). Running Backstays can be lighter than the forestay, since the mast itself and the intermediates [shrouds] take up some of the load from the forestay.”
The web is awesome….
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorInteresting post from Jack in the Pearson Current Newsletter
http://www.pearsoncurrent.com/tpcarchive/Vol6/tpc-6-2.htm#p424There is other info in Jack’s post… but this seemed particularly relevant
Inner Forestay
There has been a lot of interest in inner forestay installation at the NPYOA news forum and at least two owners have done it with some success. Hopefully, I’ll get one of these folks to write up their approach for a future issue of TPC. Meanwhile, I’m still designing my arrangement for our 424 Ketch, but wanted to tack on a description offered by Brion Toss, a well-known Seattle rigger. He offers this approach to having a separate stay handle heavy weather sails when the genoa needs to be rolled up on the furler.
“What you are talking about is a Solent Stay, a piece of rigging made possible by the invention of roller furling. It is almost always preferable to a staysail stay, with its necessary running backs, both in terms of cost and efficiency. At the upper end, use a separate tang, either custom-made or gotten from the spar builder. The halyard can be a redirected spare, or can be hung externally, or you can install an in-mast sheave. On deck, install a forestay fitting, and be sure there’s a place for the sail tack. You can locate a Solent Stay quite close to the jibstay, with no fouling problems. Theoretically, it is only set up when you need to set either a (hank-on) drifter or a storm stays, but many cruisers just leave it set all the time; to tack the genoa, they roll it up. Some production boats now have roller sails on the Solent, and set the drifter flying.”
Brion is recommending this alternative in part because a conventional staysail may not be suitable for the fore triangle provided by the designer. Also, because a staysail normally requires either intermediate after shrouds or running backstays and usually additional tracks and cars for the sheeting of the staysail. Brion’s web site, http://www.briontoss.com, is a real gem, and a visit to his Spar Talk bulletin board—with lots of comments and suggestions from his group of experts—is well worth some time. Be sure to check out the archives, which offer a search function and allow you access to previous discussions.Also, according to a comment on the Sarah Solent Stay article Sea Duty (formerly owned by Hal Sutphen, now owned by Chuck Ruble) has an inner forestay instead of the high mounted solent stay on Sarah and Whoosh.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorNot I’ve not started this yet. I asked them to not send them to me until May. Its too cold (well for Seattle people) to do this right now.
In truth, I wanted to use the 6×20’s in all the aft ports but the shower area couldn’t accept that added width so I had to go with the 8×18 (It will accept the additional height).
The main reason I changed the size in the aft ports from the 3×17 I was originally looking at was because I wanted the port to clamp to more of the hull than the 3×17 would have had to grip. They said it probably would have worked (“It only needs 1/4”), I felt better about the added structural clamp of the larger window. I will have to open up the holes a little, but having put that hole in the cabin top for the fan I’m feeling more comfortable with that.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorOK, never mind….. they don’t’ seem to care about the polish.
http://briontoss.com/spartalk/showthread.php?t=79&highlight=stainless+polishBut here’s how you can do it if you want to:
http://briontoss.com/spartalk/showthread.php?t=545&highlight=stainless+polish-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorBob, nailed a lot of the stuff I was going to mention. I was just down on the boat working on some of them.
When you go to Houston bring the following:
- Digital camera, plan to take a TON of photos. Take a photo of EVERYTHING. You will never remember all of the details of things as well as the camera.
- Flashlight
- Inspection Mirror (mirror on a stick) you can get these at the hardware store. You’re going to need it to check that fuel tank.
- flat head and phillips screwdriver
To Bob’s list I’ll add:
- check the wiring in the starboard aft closet, it will look like mess if its done well. It will look like a 1 year olds finger painting if its done poorly.
- Look at the back of the breaker panel (you’ll need the screw driver for this)
- Try all the breakers
- Try any gauges that don’t require the engine to run (they probably won’t let you do that on the initial visit). I found out my battery gauge was bad by doing this
- Turn all the winches all the way through and check the pawls. (click once fwd, and make sure it won’t go backwards). I had them service two winches because of stuck pawls.
- When you’re down in the bilge look up at the sub flooring. Is everything dangling down there or well secured?
- The floor has been known to sag on P424s around the area of the mast in the salon. You can sometimes see sepearaton at the settees as well. Easy enough to fix by jacking and blocking, but it might be a bargaining chip.
- Test all the portholes. If they seem shot, they are.
- If you’re planning on going offshore and the standing rigging is original its almost definitely time to be replaced. Maybe its still fine, but assume its not and factor that into your thinking now and you’ll be happy if you don’t have to do it. If the rigging has been redone in the past 5 years, then you’re probably golden, longer and if its been sitting in the Gulf (Lots of UV) then maybe not.
My general philosophy was to decide that I love this boat even with all the things I’m going to need to fix and knowing I’m probably only catching about half of the things that need to fixed. If you can say that then go for it.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorThe quote you reference below actually links to a 1993 article with research where the abstract says that there was little impact. That’s 15 year old research and I didn’t find any works which reproduced the results, but it still sounds interesting. I read some article that cite this original research (Peterson, S.M., Batley, G.E. and Scammell, M.S. (1993). Tetracycline in antifouling paints. Marine Pollution Bulletin 26(2), 96-100.) and one mentioned that the finding was that “One possible explanation for this may be that Oxytetracycline is photo-degradable in surfacewaters as has been reported for Tetracycline (Peterson et al. 1993).” (http://www.great-er.org/files/schowanek_pharma_paper2000.pdf)
There are also more recent studies like this one from 2006 (http://www.springerlink.com/content/e1j33x5528316m63/) which state “The data indicate that planktonic bacteria can be very sensitive to tetracycline at extremely low concentrations and that microbial production is seriously affected.” In the opening page which you can read there they directly call out the previsou findings about tetracycline being benign in water.
I certainly didn’t do an exhaustive review of the literature, but a very cursory review of material which cited the previous 1993 article finds more recent data which seems to dispute those 15 year old findings.
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorLeaching antibitoics into every ecosytem you enter doesn’t sound like a
good low impact way to sail.-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorLinks on the S/V Sarah page:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeSolentStay.htm-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorDon’t you use your bow cannon to launch that other anchor?
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorOK, I now know you and Tor and are the muck rakers… and I thought it was going to be me. 🙂
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorWill do, I will let you know that I have long-term concerns about how this will work out when I’m liveaboard cruising, but I’m 99.9% sure that when I’m using the boat less frequently than every day that it will be great.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
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