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I went the custom route last year. Yes it was expensive. A bad nights sleep only compounds any issues you are dealing with during the day. I'm very happy with the mattress.
A suggestion is to ensure it has handles on the sides and request it be hinged.
ChuckOn Tue, Oct 13, 2009 at 7:07 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I need a new aft cabin bunk mattress. At present I've got some dead foam rubber over those plastic Froli
portable springs. The springs helped some when I added them a year ago, but they can't completely overcome
dead foam. This week I checked out the custom bed mattress vendors at the boat show. Once I recovered enough
from the sticker shock to get back up off the floor, I figured I'm just doomed to another piece of foam rubber
that will gradually crap out in a few years.Anybody have a happier solution? Bob (Fine), didn't you once tell me about some mattress guy up north that you
like?Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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I'll be at the powerboat show in the event anybody else plans to be there.
Chuck
On Wed, Sep 30, 2009 at 3:26 PM, Alan < ([email][/email])> wrote:
count me in….
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Extended life, silicate free, red (diesel rated) is what the majority of the manufactures specify.
Chuck
On Wed, Sep 30, 2009 at 8:48 AM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Be sure that the stuff is approved for aluminum.
QuentPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
John, it's imperative this be aligned correctly when it goes back in. Make sure you don't change anything that could compromise the alignment. I pulled mine on my own. It's pretty heavy but I got it off the boat while on the hard and I'm not that big. You may want to isolate the leak before you pull it. It's a bear to get out and even worse to get back in due to the mass of the thing and the confined area.
I had oil leaks also. The inside of the cooling jacket was all ate up with rust, so much that the fins snapped off in my fingers. I ended up replacing it with the RV-26. The RV-26 isn't a drop in replacement. It requires a different output shaft installed into the end of the upper drive shaft and modified mounts. It was expensive but I figured with the rebuild I just did on the W60 it was worth it to do the job right.
Chuck
On Mon, Sep 28, 2009 at 8:32 AM, Indulgence < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hello,
I found some oil leaking from the bottom of Walter V-Drive. I thought that I would pull it and put new gaskets in this winter at home. Any ideas on the weight of the V-drive? The boat is being pulled for the season on Wednesday….I'm trying to understand if this something I can get out on my own or need to have yard do.
I thought if I am there, it might be time to pull the shaft and redo the Cutlas bearing as well as putting in a dripless stuffing box.
John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, MEPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thanks Rick, I asked around at a party at the marina over the weekend and Kato came up a couple times with positive feedback.
On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 10:43 PM, Rick Dugger < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Chuck,
Doug and I both have the Kato davits.
Sexy and strong – their holding up our large Apex w/ 15hp outboard.
Company is in Annapolis and has been around for a long time. They keep a history of the install. When I called about additional rail supports they had everything on file about the install by the previous owner.
Rick
EclipseOn Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 8:06 AM, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Any thoughts on some of the folding davit products out there? The Forespar Nova product looks pretty sharp.
Chuck
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The thermostat is probably stuck open. It can be tested in a pot of water on the stove. The previous unit I had, included a little bead on a chain that was set into the dish assembly, no idea what is was for. In November of last year I was unable to get the boat to operating temp. I ran it for nearly 4 hours and it only came up to 140. The following weekend I pulled the t-stat and found the chain and ball do-hickey wedging the unit wide open. OR, it could be in upside down.
I replaced it with a NAPA 180 degree unit and have hot water within minutes.
On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 9:05 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I'm somewhat frustrated by the lack of hot water when cruising.
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http://www.thornycroftengines.co.uk/
They marinized the British Leyland also and still stock base engine parts.
On Wed, Sep 9, 2009 at 11:07 AM, quent wrote:
Try Gaskets-to-go either Google their website or on Ebay. They made a couple W-58 head gaskets for me. Actually, since he didn't have a W-58 gasket to copy, he made the first one free. Way less money than the factory.
Re the heater, we installed a 12 volt circulator pump.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Dan, the Oil Boy uses vacuum to pull the warm oil out. It works great. It has a float that prevents it from overfilling. Once you pump it, creating the vacuum it continues to draw for a few minutes. The tube enters the oil sump via the dipstick hole. I join two of the tubes together creating an arc that allows the extractor to sit next to the engine. It has a pour spout. Simple, well made, very effective.
http://www.amazon.com/Tempo-Oil-Boy-Fluid-Extractor/dp/B0000BYP0L
On Tue, Aug 18, 2009 at 3:36 PM, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Has anyone with a Westerbeke 58 added an auto oil change gizmo? If so, which one? Any guidance? I haven't crawled “down under” yet and am making the blind assumption that there is a drain plug under the engine. This project has slithered up my punch list.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
HonoluluPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Dan, do a search on the .org b-board and you'll find this discussion has come up a number of times. Some of the folks on here have come up with some ingenious ways to empty the bilge in addition to the standard 12 volt unit.
My 'primary' or 'auto' is a small Rule 750 gph unit. It includes a built in float switch. It feeds a 3/4 inch discharge (just below the cap rail) that includes a check valve. The Rule unit stays on for another 15 seconds to pull almost all of the water from the bilge. It sets flush on the bilge floor, collared by a piece of painted (maybe its just oil) plywood that the other pump is mounted atop.
I do not have a check valve on my larger manual unit, nor would want one. Nothing should impede the flow of that unit, it vents near the water line after passing through an anti siphon.
Both use separate thru hull openings.
Besides the manual edson unit in the salon floor, a second unit is in the stern locker that can be operated by the person at the helm.Pete Dubler offered a neat solution in Good Old Boat using a pedometer to count auto bilge cycles. I'd like to add that to my circuit along with a bilge alarm.
As for the shaft, it is secured (the shaft is drilled to accept a set screw in the coupling) to a keyed coupling that is bolted to the V-Drive, if the shaft moved there's a larger issue. Hopefully it is something as simple as the packing gland not properly installed/tightened.
Chuck
On Tue, Aug 18, 2009 at 3:26 PM, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:
For those of you who have installed 2 bilge pumps, a simple question from someone looking for advice. Are both of the pumps discharging into the same hose? It seems to me that the lower pump would prevent back flow from the second pump if it was operating, assuming that both pumps had separate intakes into the same discharge hose.
Guiding experience is sought as I wrestle with another pump. I had the v drive rebuilt recently and the worker did not brace the shaft. Evidently a wake threw the shaft forward and water started coming in. A neighbor noticed the constant pump discharge and called me. Nothing like a call that your boat is sinking while 5,000 miles away!
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
HonoluluPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Patrick, the pick up is a pretty simple mechanical device easily removed. Remove the screws around the gauge and it lifts out. Note the orientation of the float arm, it probably has to clear a baffle. Once out you can manually operate it to determine it's functionality. Careful with the rubber seal. 2 hour job. While you have it out, if you have an oil buddy, or some similar oil changing device draw some fuel from the bottom of the tank. Ideally you'll get any water that might be down there. Clean fuel would be even better!
Chuck
On Sun, Aug 9, 2009 at 10:27 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I'm 99% sure it's stuck at 3/4 i'm going to fill up in Port Townsend, WA tomorrow to confirm.
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Rodd, you might consider taking the entire unit to a radiator shop for cleaning and testing. The metal is very soft and will develop pinhole leaks at the brazed areas. A good shop might charge less than $100 for a thorough service and should add years to the live of the exchanger. These things are frighteningly expensive to replace. I took all mine up at the same time, they found a number of tiny leaks. They all were returned cleaned and painted.
Also, they used a bead material and some sort of agitation unit to clean the insides, rather than acid or brushes.
ChuckOn Tue, Jul 28, 2009 at 11:15 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hi Rodd,When you open the cap all that will come out is salt water. Maybe some yucky stuff. If coolant comes out, you have bigger issues – you'll need the heat exchanger repaired or replaced. Really, it's no big deal to take the end caps off. I think it's a 1/2″ or 9/16 ” bolt about 3/4″ long. You may have to pry it gently with a screwdriver to break the seal of the rubber gasket, but if it takes you more than about 2 minutes, you're trying to remove something else….
Close the thru-hull first….
Bob
On Tue, Jul 28, 2009 at 11:11 AM, adam silverstein < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Only water. Coolant is separated within jacket around rods.Adam Silverstein, iPhone
On Jul 28, 2009, at 10:34 AM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Robert-
That's what I was afraid someone would say!! When opening the cap will any coolant drain out, or only the salt water ?
Quote:
Original Message
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My Velvet Drive was working just fine when I did the engine rebuild, I elected not to mess with it.
The transmission uses pressure from its own pump (run by engine output rotation) to activate the clutch packs in one of two directions. When it moves it into reverse an idler gear is thrown into the mix to get a reverse turning motion. It sounds as if a component of that portion of the drive train could be binding up. I'd guess that if were part of the clutch pack that were binding it wouldn't turn at all as both spin when one or the other is engaged. I sort of doubt though that this is the case.
Since the engine has to be running to get the needed pressure to shift, this could be a tough one to troubleshoot. If there is something bound up in the case, you don't want to make it any worse by applying gross amounts of torque to it. Shutting an engine off by force could break a connecting rod, crank, timing chain…
More than likely it is an issue with the shaft brake. Do you have a shaft brake? It looks like a brake rotor between the transmission and the prop shaft. It is specifically designed to stop reverse rotation when the engine is not running. Pressure from Velvet Drives own pump keeps it disengaged when the engine is running. If not properly adjusted it could be grabbing when the output reverses. It is essentially a wedge and has more than enough force to stop the engine, although it could be torn off it's mount if anything more than an idle were taking place. I'd not want to see what that thing would do to the surrounding woodwork and hull if it got free.
If you are game, have somebody watch the transmission output when you put it into reverse, if it turns a quarter turn and at the same time the shaft brake caliper moves up towards 12 o'clock and the engine stops, I think you found your issue. You could use a tie wrap or small stuff to hold it out of position until you get it fixed. A pipe plug can be put into the V-Drive where the hose attaches if you take the entire thing off. I rebuilt my shaft brake and continue to use it even though I have a feathering prop. It's a great little device when properly maintained.If it is the transmission, it comes right out with the removal of a few bolts. Before you remove it, have a tech take a look at it. It could be a simple fix. A few more bolts and the entire engine can be removed 😉 These are great transmissions and most any yard has a tech that is intimate with its innards.
Jame's, I've got a maint/rebuild doc for the transmission if you need it.
On Mon, Jul 20, 2009 at 9:22 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:James:
As Rich said, the rebuild should be fairly straight forward. If you are so inclined, complete rebuild kits are $150-$200.
http://marineengineparts.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page198.html
If you google “Velvet Drive 71C rebuild”, you will find lots of discussions of people doing this themselves. You would need access to a press at one point to insert the bearing ( I usually just bring the part to my local garage and give the mechanic a $10 bill to press it on for me in a couple minutes!!
The service manual gives a very complete description of the procedure.
I am curios if Chuck or anyone else on the list has done this themselves??
Also, as Rich mentioned, this should be child's play for your local transmission shop.
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You want to eliminate some real noise, insulate the V-Drive. That thing is a big source of ambient racket.
On Sun, May 24, 2009 at 2:34 AM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I installed new sound insulation on the engine cover today. Blog post and pics on my blog:
http://deepplaya.com/post/Engine-sound-proofing.aspx
This was very easy project which is to say it went better than most other projects.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pat, a standard pipe plug will cap the hole.
I say keep it cause if you lose your folding prop for some reason and have to resort to a backup (Hal didn't throw anything away, I still have the original Michigan Sailor) you'll want to be able to lock the prop as the Velvet Drive ideally shouldn't spin free when the engine isn't running. Sea Duty has a Maxx Prop as well as a working prop lock.
The spring could be found at Home Depot or Lowes. The seal kit for the hydraulic unit is still available from the manufacturer of that component and the brake pads can be found also.
If you need any information on parts I'll dig them up.
It's a really cool unit that is surprisingly well made. I've got no springs on mine and it works without but rattles.
ChuckOn Sun, May 24, 2009 at 2:42 AM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Was the Wilbur Industries Proplock standard equipment? Has anyone removed theirs and have learning to share on that?
I want to remove it because its ancient and it appears as though Wilbur Industries is out of business, there's a spring on it which is busted, it extends almost all the way out to the engine cover and I plan to get a folding prop eventually which will accomplish the same.
I'm just not sure about removing the line from the transmission case will that result in a big mess? What kind of plug do I then use to cap that hole and what are the odds I'll be able to find the plug for a W58?
Thanks,
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
The extra gasket is the usual suspect. That happens more often than you might think (ask any Jiffy Lube manager). Also wrong filter, but the improper seat is a hard thing to miss when it starts (hopefully you are nowhere near it).
I saw the results of a failed off brand filter that failed on a Toyota 22R in a small truck. It blew the cylindrical cover clean off it, no bilge to clean up though.
ChuckOn Thu, May 21, 2009 at 1:32 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I'm not sure how you do this wrong.
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