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This is a great question to put to the riggers on Spartalk
http://www.briontoss.com/spartalk/-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya2011/8/3 Silverheels
Quote:Here are a few photos illustrating the pieces I fabricated for the
double-backstay masthead connection. Not sure it was an ideal solution,
but it’s holding.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Would have made for a better antenna too.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 11:49 AM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:I replaced my standing rigging a few years ago. I regret I didn’t
eliminate
the delta plate on the Ketch back stay and go with two independent back
stays to the main mast. Would have been about the same cost – a little
more
cable, but fewer fittings. I didn’t think of it until a few years later
when berthed next to a similar-size ketch with two back stays.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 1:46 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Good idea, Bill. An added advantage is the ability to have two main
backstays, one to each chain plate.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Quote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Oompa doompa doopity do. I’ve got another riddle for you!
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Thu, Jul 28, 2011 at 3:24 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Whups, let’s try again… finished painting my spars a couple of weekends
ago… Photo caption contest…http://www.dublerfamily.com/**Regina_oceani/CaptionContest.**jpg
On 7/28/2011 4:18 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Our mizzen forwards (or maybe it was shrouds) were bent and they appeared to
have been done do before being installed. We just put them back in as-is
after inspection by a rigger and polishing by us.
Some relate blog posts:
Chainplate before and after: http://deepplaya.com/?p=563
Installing and bedding chainplates: http://deepplaya.com/?p=67-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Thu, Jul 28, 2011 at 2:18 PM, Dea Latis wrote:
Actually I am more concerned about twisted chain plates. Of those that have
removed/replaced your chain plates, have you had any that were twisted? My
two forward most plates are both twisted and a friend of mine is telling me
it must have been done prior to installation (meant to be like that), and
the force required to twist that steel would not have been transmitted
through the rigging. Also, one of my back stay plates is slightly bent. Just
wondering what others have found.
Thanks
Dave
Dave
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Thanks everyone.. I’l l have to sort out my plans.. I had not really paid
attention to my alternator seemed to be working fine , but while I was
changing the oil I decided to jot down the make and model… Leece Neville
8RG2064 and it says its output is 12V @ 4AMPs… unless I”m not
understanding something…I am utterly dismayed how I’ve been able to be off the shore power at the
dock at all.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sun, Jul 17, 2011 at 5:09 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
So glad you asked…
I have two of the high output Ample Power PT-24 (aka 4024) 136 Amp
alternators left over from my engine swap out. One is an unused spare.
Both have double belt pulleys. Also have some extra brushes and
bearings to go with these. What is nice about these, besides the output
and the fact that they are direct “drop-ins” for the original
alternator, is that they use standard Delco cases so they are recognized
anywhere and the parts, like bearings, are cheap if you ever need them.
I wish I could use these on my new Beta but the foot conversion (new
case) and pulley swap out is just not worthwhile. Here is the website:
http://www.amplepower.com/**products/alternators/index.**html These sell
for $549 new. Contact me directly and make me an offer I can’t
refuse… BTW, I love the Ample Power stuff. I have two of their smart
regulators; one for the engine alternator and one to control my 6HP
scuba compressor/12V generator with 200 AMP alternator (which is
physically way too big for the W-58.Pete
On 7/15/2011 11:55 PM, Patrick_DeepPlaya wrote:
I was checking out my alternator and I was wondering if any of your W58
owners have high output alternators and if so which ones have you been happy
with.Thanks,
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!@Patrick_DeepPlaya wrote:
Here is a pic of my new hoses installed.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/5938042863/in/photostreamThe longer metal ends meant the routing had to change, but I actually like they way they are routed MUCH better than the old hoses which were very contorted.
-p
I meant to include the specifics on the hoses. These were for a W58.
Gates Hose
Z8C5D-8RMIX-8RMIX-29
Z8C5D-8RMIX-8RMIX-24That’s a Gates Z8C5D hose with 8RMIX fittings on each end . One is 29″ and the other 24″ in length.
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!@kalinowski wrote:
Aloha Patrick: I had a place in Wisconsin manufacture the contorted metal tubes that run the cooling water on the back of the engine. No one in the Islands had the machinery to handle pipe this size. They did a tremendous job cheaply! They also fabricate for collector cars, etc. I’ll get their contact info for you if you’re interested.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama (#135)
Ko Olina, O’ahuThat would be a great contact to have, please do share!
Here is a pic of my new hoses installed.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/5938042863/in/photostreamThe longer metal ends meant the routing had to change, but I actually like they way they are routed MUCH better than the old hoses which were very contorted.
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I’m reply to this old thread because while I have the cover of the engine I also want to look into getting a proper cable end onto my shifter. When I originally did this repair the fitting supplied was too long and wouldn’t lineup so to get it working I drilled out the original fitting, which is what you see in this picture:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/5937816368Does anyone happen to know where I can find a proper fitting or at last the part number? The Teleflex website isn’t much help.
I was also thinking it might be possible to bend a piece of SS, tap the end that goes on the cable and drill out a fitting that fully connects to the transmission shifter “post”.
Thanks,
-p@Patrick_DeepPlaya wrote:
When my shifter cable broke I replaced it with cable that matched what was
there, but I think at 11 feet it’s actually way too long. I had to get the
boat back and running in 24 hours though so I didn’t want to dink around
with trying a shorter cable. I have a W58.
Teleflex Marine TFX CCX63311 – 3300CC TFXTREME CONTROL CABLE, 11FTI started by using a piece of string to measure the length of the cable, if
you think yours is different than mine I’d do that.I also bought a pedestal rebuild kit at the time and replaces all the
bushings and washers. You will have the entire pedestal apart anyway so you
might as well do it. Your pedestal may not match mine.
Edson EDS 314-335 – PEDESTAL REBUILD KITRead the Edson instructions on installing your pedestal.
http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/planning/EB381SteeringGuide.pdfYou will need to loosen the cables from the quadrant and disassemble the
top-end of the pedestal completely. You should also find someone to spend
the day with you who has long arms and small hands to help you pick up stuff
you drop in there. OMG, that was a pain…Hope that helps !
-p.
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Deep Playa have 6 batteries of the following spec:
*Interstate Deep Cycle/Cranking – 6 Volt*BCI Grp #Interstate TypeAmp Hours
@ 20 hrs.RC
(Min.)Warranty (Mo.)Hrs. at Ampere Load*Dimensions (in.)*
L | W | HWeight
(lbs)Terminal@ 25A@ 75A5 amps15 ampsGC-2U2200232474122654.514.010-1/4 7-1/8
11-1/4622 options: threaded stud over auto post OR auto post w/ hole
They are in two banks, stored in stacked battery boxes in the starboard
lazarette.We plan to combine them into one large house bank and add a dedicated
starting battery at some point, most likely when the batteries need
replacing.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 5:39 AM, wrote:
I am trying to determine what changes were made to Wavemaker before
acquisition.Where did Pearson put the house batteries if there was installed an
inverter in the port cockpit lazarette?Many thanks.
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Because I’m silly… Why have a cleat… (which was there before). Just
makes sense to me…-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Mon, Jun 27, 2011 at 10:14 AM, wrote:
Quote:Gee, if you have a self-tailer, why the jam-cleat?
Rich
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Here’s an example..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/5189878457/I moved the winch inboard as well so the handle can turn full round.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Mon, Jun 27, 2011 at 7:15 AM, Oldrodie wrote:
My boat is rigged with a single speed winch on the port side cabin top
feeding to a regular cleat. For the main sail sheet. I am considering adding
a cam cleat to expeidite sail handeling.
So as not to reinvent the wheel has anyone done this?
Is it as simple as screwing the cam cleat to the deck or does it need to be
angle mounted since the sheet will feed rom the top of the winch down at
about 30deg.Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941Sent from my iPad
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Thanks everyone for the suggestions, very helpful!
Here’s what I’m doing….
My external platesbrackets are approximately 9″4″ (they’re not really
rectangular). Which are sitting on starboard pads. The top bracket is on a
1/2″ pad and has very little shapingtaper to match the hullalign the
windvane. The bottom bracket has an 1″ to 1/2″ starboard wedge that is
shaped to properly align the brack and thus the windvane. That took a day to
sand by hand!On the inside, I’m using 13″x8″x1/2″ Marine Grade Plywood that I sanded to
match the interior hull shape. Dawn then sealed them in epoxy. On top of
that will be 316 SS backing plates that are 6″x10″x1/4″ and SS fender
washers & Nylocks.I think it will be pretty beefy, if I notice any issues, I’m going to glass
in a full sheet of 1/2″ marine grade plywood or coosa board.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 12:17 PM, norris larson wrote:
Quote:I installed a Sail-O-Mat on Easy Reach. After bolting on the single bracket
that held the unit on the transon, I noticed considerable oil-canning. I
then added to long aluminum battens, 1/8 thick by 1 1/2 inches wide by 3
feet or so long and rebolted the bracket through them. Since I have long
since sold her to Alan Tershko, I don’t rember what else I did, but I seem
to remember there were other bolts already in the transom that I used to
stabilize the lower ends of the battens. Because I used 1/8 stock, bending
to the cuirve of the transom was easy. The rig held up from Key West to
Belize, Roatan, and back to Key West. I found the wind driven device almost
useless in the lakes and, of course, the Erie Canal. The best use was in the
trade wind zones south of Isla Mujeres.Norris Larson
— On Sat, 6/11/11, Silverheels wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Schaefer 70-75 is what I use as well.
http://schaeferhardware.com/detail.aspx?ID=1010-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sun, Jun 12, 2011 at 6:35 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
I use the Scheafer track cleats about $75 each.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jun 12, 2011 9:31 PM, “allantereshko”
wrote:Just curious to find out what the options are for a midship cleat to hold
a springline. Has anyone installed a cleat on the bulkwark or is a track
cleat the best way to go. My docking situation requires a waist cleat and I
wonder about relying on a cleat of the sail track. Did a search before I
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Here is the thread when I started this same conversation a while back:
https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=994
And some pics of mine:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/tags/waltervdrive/I ended up putting the lid back on with RTV gasket (liquid) and not hooking
it back up to the water cooling system. I have the hoses there in case I
needed to, but I’ve motored for 6-8 hour with it this way and it doesn’t
seem to get very hot at all. I also have the infrared temp gub form harbor
freight to keep an eye on it. I think if I did hok up the hoses water would
probably spray out of the thing.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Jun 11, 2011 at 10:04 AM, wrote:
Quote:Ok, many thanks.
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!that’s about what i was thinking… but where do you store that big press on Silver Heels. 😉
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 11, 2011, at 4:52, “Silverheels” wrote:
Pat,
(This time with the photos!)
I mounted a large external rudder on my transom when I installed the
Auto-Helm windvane. To beef up the transom, I made up large 1/4″
aluminum backing plates (photos attached). I believe you’d damage the
transom if you don’t do something similar. (Note the necessity to bend
the backing plates a little to match the camber of the transom. If you
get them close, they’ll finalize their shape when they’re snugged down
with the thru-bolts.)The installation has proven sound so far over a few thousand miles of
offshore sailing.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
