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Look here: they have the bayonet (cylinder with two nubs), two pin (halogen
replacement), and traditional screw in type replacement bulbs:
http://www.doctorled.com/p2.htm-p
On Mon, Mar 29, 2010 at 2:47 PM, sumocean wrote:
Don
How did you adapt the bulbs to the screw in type bases? The link takes me
to lights with two pins on the back. Is there an adapter or do you solder
them into an old bulb base?
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!In my conversations with booth the folks from SelfSteer (Monitor, Sayes,
etc) and Yves from Capehorn (delightful guy from Quebec) I asked them about
this and they all said most Cruisers are running off the wind so in general
the cockpit canvas isn’t really a problem anyway. However when you are going
to weather they both said the tall fins work well.-p
On Mon, Mar 29, 2010 at 7:48 AM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:Pat,Yes, my Auto-Helm windvane works perfectly behind the dodger and bimini.
The
airvane is mostly above the bimini height so it gets enough clear air. The
trade-off is I have to remember to put a preventer on the mizzen boom
whenever I’m using the windvane, to prevent an accidental jibe or
thoughtless tack from wiping out the airvane.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I got a pic of that: Belzona 1111 Super Metal
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4232509670/<http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4232509670/>The yard had it and
provided me with some. You’d have to see where to get it locally. It’s at
least $150 for the 1kg size seen in that photo.-p
On Fri, Mar 26, 2010 at 3:57 PM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
Quote:Thanks Patrick. Do you recall which of the many Belzona products you used
and where do you get it?Thanks,
Pete
On 3/26/2010 4:36 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Quote:I had my spars blasted and painted with AlexSeal 501. I patched corrosion
area and bolt holes with Belzona.
http://www.alexseal.com/en/ease.php
<http://www.alexseal.com/en/ease.php>http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx<http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx>The Belzona was easy to work with,
but
cured fast.All of this was expensive. If you have experience with a spray gun and
adequate facilities you might get similar or better results yourself. My
finish is about an 8 out of 10, but I was not willing to pay for the labor
to get to a 10 finish (lots and lots of fill and sanding) and I did not
have
the facilities or skill to do it myself.-=p
On Fri, Mar 26, 2010 at 1:25 PM, Eric Lorentzon<>
wrote:Quote:Hi Pete, My spars were hand painted (poorly) by PO
I just did both spars and all spreaders. 14 sheets of 80 grit + 6 sheets
400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Four 3M fine sanding sponges.2qt’s Interlux
brightside ( i opted not to go all the way to bare metal) this gave me 2
coats throughout 2 cans of 3331 x 3in quality brush (already had a 1.5in
for
the tight spots)total of materials $168.32lots of hours did not keep
trackFinished product is acceptable (200 x better than what I had)
EricNavasana, Hull #70— On Thu, 3/25/10, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I had my spars blasted and painted with AlexSeal 501. I patched corrosion
area and bolt holes with Belzona.
http://www.alexseal.com/en/ease.php
<http://www.alexseal.com/en/ease.php>http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx<http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx>The Belzona was easy to work with, but
cured fast.All of this was expensive. If you have experience with a spray gun and
adequate facilities you might get similar or better results yourself. My
finish is about an 8 out of 10, but I was not willing to pay for the labor
to get to a 10 finish (lots and lots of fill and sanding) and I did not have
the facilities or skill to do it myself.-=p
On Fri, Mar 26, 2010 at 1:25 PM, Eric Lorentzon <> wrote:
Quote:Hi Pete, My spars were hand painted (poorly) by PO
I just did both spars and all spreaders. 14 sheets of 80 grit + 6 sheets
400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Four 3M fine sanding sponges.2qt’s Interlux
brightside ( i opted not to go all the way to bare metal) this gave me 2
coats throughout 2 cans of 3331 x 3in quality brush (already had a 1.5in for
the tight spots)total of materials $168.32lots of hours did not keep
trackFinished product is acceptable (200 x better than what I had)
EricNavasana, Hull #70— On Thu, 3/25/10, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!back to the discussion of the teak eyebrow:
Here’s a shot of the original Beckson portlights with the eyebrow trim
removed
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4126824631/in/set-72157622793614824/Here’s
a shot of my new found metals portlight in the foreground and one of the
old, soon to be replaced, bowmar portlights. You can see the NFM sits more
proud of the hull than the Bowmar and the Bowmar sits more proud than hte
Beckson.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4463766927/in/set-72157622793614824/-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Since I’m in the tail end of my refit let me just say, everything on a boat
requires sanding… seriously… everything. 😉-p
On Thu, Mar 25, 2010 at 9:25 PM, Adam wrote:
I am afraid of all the hard work needed to remove a two part varnish in the
future. I’m going to try Epifane woodfinish gloss. It says it doesn’t
require sanding in between coats.I hope it works!
Adam
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!They are certainly not structural. If you have the original low profile
portlights they would offer a very small amount of shielding in a light
sprinkle. If you have new portholes with proper spigots and framing (Like my
new portlighs from New Found Metals) then the eyebrow is purely cosmetic.On Mon, Mar 22, 2010 at 7:25 AM, Chuck Ruble wrote:
Are the eyebrows only aesthetic? If so it would seem removing it and
filling the holes with epoxy and gel coat would be the functional solution,
no?On Sun, Mar 21, 2010 at 4:56 PM, Alan wrote:
My port eyebrow (already had been recaulked) leaked on the way to Bermuda
last October.
— On Sun, 3/21/10, Lee Yonkers wrote:_______________________________________________
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I also removed the teak eyebrow trim above the portlights. It was put on
with wood screws and a small amount of silicon caulk that had long dried up
and pulled away and was a source of much leaking and interior teak damage.I’m letting the varnish flake off of my toe rail when I’m not actively
scraping at it. When I pulled the port toe rail track to replace it, I took
a heat gun and scraper to that whole flat section and removed all the
varnish.Natural teak is our plan…
-=p
On Sun, Mar 21, 2010 at 10:27 AM, Thatcher A. Stone wrote:
Quote:Hi Lee, I don’t follow the eyebrow remark. Photo?
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Looking at the W58 Parts list:http://drop.io/DeepPlaya/asset/westerbeke58-partscatalog
I see that as PN 23571 Sender Water Temperature 1/8NPT
According to Torreson that PN is now 35109 which they sell for $76.56.
http://shop.torresen.com/marine_diesel_direct/Westerbeke/index.php?p=details&mfc=Westerbeke&sku=35109§ionid=5161I have no idea if that is a good price.
-p
On Wed, Mar 10, 2010 at 9:37 AM, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:
The temp gage on our W 58 has given up the ghost (the gage pegs at 300 when the engine starts). Are these standard screw in units? Suggestions?
Dan Kalinowski
Lady leanne II (#135)
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I agree you have to pull it to do it right. I paid just under $900 for a new shaft, prop nuts, Walter Gear coupling and fitting the coupling to the shaft.
If you really wanted to not measure it you can try to contact the guy I used and see if he'll make you an exact copy. Here's his info and the info on my shaft as he observed it before replacement.
“Gary Ives – The Prop Shop” < ([email][/email])
Shaft Target Diameter: 1-1/2″Shaft length: 66″
Observed Diameter delta: Stuffing box area -0.015″
Cutless bearing area -0.011″
Shaft is -.007″ to -.009″ in middle
Straightness delta: 0.004″
Anything else I should be looking at?
1. Your cutless bearing area is .011″ under 1.50″.
According to Navy specs, for an 1-1/2″ shaft, you should have .004″ to .010″ shaft to bearing clearence. A new bearing is built with .010″ to .015″ clearence. If you add the .011″ that the shaft is under diameter in the cultess bearing area, that puts you at .022″ to .026″ for bearing to shaft clearence.
Give me a call at 425-745-1700 and we can talk.
Thanks, Gary
-p
On Wed, Mar 10, 2010 at 10:57 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John
Exact length varies somewhat by propeller and may vary slightly from boat to boat. Having a little variation in the coupling gap is most likely caused by a bent shaft but not always. Your coupling may be bent. I suggest pulling the shaft and send it out to a prop shop that specializes in shafts. They can check the shaft to see if its true and can remachine an exact replacement. Before you pull the shaft, measure the distance between the prop and the strut. Discuss this with your prop shop to see if its correct. The new shaft may need to be a slightly different length to adjust this correctly. This distance is critical to smooth operation. Now would be a good time to consider adding a line cutter as it requires a little more space between strut and prop. Its also a good time to consider a dripless stuffing box since the shaft will be out.You should send out your coupling too. If they say that the shaft and coupling are both OK, you may have a bent flange on your V-drive. The coupling or V-drive flange can get bent if someone tries to remove the shaft improperly. A common way to remove the shaft is to separate the coupling by about 3 inches and stick a socket in there. Tightening the screws will then force the shaft to slip out of the coupling. If care isn't taken to tighten the screws evenly, its easy to bend the coupling and/or V-drive flange.
Regards
Rich
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!And yes we're all (especially me) very jealous!!
Related to that, I've been trying for days to use online HAMSSB sites (like RemoteHams.com) to connect to remote radios better situated to listen in on the nets in the Pacific. Anyone have any luck with such a system?
-p
On Tue, Mar 9, 2010 at 9:36 AM, Syringa wrote:
I see that Jack & Patricia Tyler on Whoosh are going to be part of the 2010 Pacific Puddle Jump Fleet. See the March issue of Latitude 38 page 119. Good Luck and have fun. Don & Pat Gardner Syringa
Don Gardner
S/V Syringa #124/)+/)+~=:)
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Check out Dr LED that’s what I used.
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 24, 2010, at 8:24, “Indulgence” wrote:
Hello,
Does anyone have a suggestion for a LED replacement bulb for the Aft and v-Bearth halogen lamps? I don’t want to replace the lights…just the bulbs. Thanks.
John Sommer
Indulgence #179
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Thanks everyone!
On Tue, Feb 23, 2010 at 6:02 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I can confidently state that there is no bearing in the stern tube of my 424.Rich
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Best deal…. not sure about that, but after seeing them in person and laying hands on them at the 2009 Boat Show I knew they were what I wanted. There was boat show discount and I saved a lot of money by going to pickup them up in person too. As you can imagine they are fairly heavy.
-p
On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 7:52 PM, Adam wrote:
Your ports look great. You all have done LOTS of work! Stainless is the way to go if you are going to all the trouble to replace the ports. Did that company have the best deal?
Adam
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!From my experience companies will offer you the boat show price even if you're not there. Just call them and ask.
List of specials isn't very impressive on their website:
http://search.sailrite.com/category/sailing-marine-gear-discontinued-overstocked-specials-sale-p
On Sat, Feb 20, 2010 at 12:48 PM, Linus Martinez wrote:
Have any of you that have been to the boat shows stopped by the Sailrite booth? I am looking to buy a LSZ-1 and would like to know what kind of boat show specials they are offering, without having to go to the boat show of course. Noticed a tear in the sail cover and thought now might a good time to upgrade my machine.
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
