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If you need to enlarge a hole, the best drill bit to use is a step-drill bit. Of course one to enlarge beyond 1″ could be expensive, but still a good tool to have in your kit.
John
On Mon, Mar 2, 2009 at 4:04 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Linus:
What is the size of hole – Marinco AFI has teak pulls for a 1.25″ hole. Available in either 5/8″ or 1″ length.
Paul
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Regards,
John Stevenson
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Rod,
Thanks for info, now would you like to buy my SR161 so I can afford the new model.
Actually only the dual channel operation interests me (which was available in the SR162). I get the output to the PC and chart plotter via an NMEA mux, and I already have a dedicated antenna on the mizzen masthead.
However, if I were just planning to install an AIS receiver, those features would definitely get my attention.John
On Sun, Mar 1, 2009 at 8:59 AM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Guys:
I spoke with Milltech and learned they are coming out with a new unit in a week or 2 that does the following:
1. True dual channel unit
2. NMEA 0183 wired output–for nmea in on chart plotters
3. USB out- for connection to PC
4. built-in antenna splitter –to enable use of existing VHF antenna
All this at price of $399– as usual tech gets better and cheaper every 6 mos or so!!
Rodd Leeds—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rod,
This is the link to the SSCA discusion, http://ssca.org/DiscBoard/viewtopic.php?t=7123
This involved a different Garmin model, but it may still be helpful.John
On Fri, Feb 27, 2009 at 3:49 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Rod,
There was a thread on the SSCA Forum a few months ago. A person was having difficulty interfacing his Garmin plotter to the SR161 AIS receiver. You might want to search for that thread on the forum. I believe there was a micro-code change necessary (which may have been related to the RS422 issue) and some other peculiarities. If your unit is new it probably has the microcode change, but it is worth checking with Garmin before beating your head troubleshooting.
I believe the main difference between RS232, which the SR161 uses, and RS422 is in the signally voltages.
I published a web page on my AIS installation (initially NASA AIS Engine, now SR161). My plotters were a PC and a Raymarine C-Series, so it may not help you much if you run into problems with the Garmin.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewElectronicsAIS.htmJohn
On Fri, Feb 27, 2009 at 1:06 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
the miltech uses 0183 so it's doable.
“if it were me” I'd get the new $699 class b transponder from WM.
In fact that's what I am doing, you wanna buy my miltech? 🙂
Gents:
I recently purchased a Garmin 540 plotter that I plan to install at the
helm. It is advertised as being ready to accept AIS via NMEA 0183 data.I have seen a Miltech model SR151 advertised for $189. Does anyone know
if I can interface the 2? Milltech states that their product “This
product is not designed to be interfaced with NMEA RS422 chart plotters.”Does that mean the 2 won't work together??
Thanks-
Rodd
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John Stevenson
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rod,
There was a thread on the SSCA Forum a few months ago. A person was having difficulty interfacing his Garmin plotter to the SR161 AIS receiver. You might want to search for that thread on the forum. I believe there was a micro-code change necessary (which may have been related to the RS422 issue) and some other peculiarities. If your unit is new it probably has the microcode change, but it is worth checking with Garmin before beating your head troubleshooting.
I believe the main difference between RS232, which the SR161 uses, and RS422 is in the signally voltages.
I published a web page on my AIS installation (initially NASA AIS Engine, now SR161). My plotters were a PC and a Raymarine C-Series, so it may not help you much if you run into problems with the Garmin.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewElectronicsAIS.htmJohn
On Fri, Feb 27, 2009 at 1:06 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
the miltech uses 0183 so it's doable.
“if it were me” I'd get the new $699 class b transponder from WM.
In fact that's what I am doing, you wanna buy my miltech? 🙂
Gents:
I recently purchased a Garmin 540 plotter that I plan to install at the
helm. It is advertised as being ready to accept AIS via NMEA 0183 data.I have seen a Miltech model SR151 advertised for $189. Does anyone know
if I can interface the 2? Milltech states that their product “This
product is not designed to be interfaced with NMEA RS422 chart plotters.”Does that mean the 2 won't work together??
Thanks-
Rodd
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Regards,
John Stevenson
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Alan,
My recommendation.
1. Before or shortly after you depart freshwater paint the bottom with the cheapest paint available.
2. When you get to your next cruising grounds paint it with what the yards use in that area.John
On Fri, Feb 27, 2009 at 8:44 AM, Alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
A discussion akin to anchors….
My wallet quivers with the thought of doing the bottom this year.
I am in fresh water now (in the water in May1st), but plan on being in salt water by the end of the year.
I need some suggestion as what paint to put on and expected results based on location.
Most likely the plan is cruise the Carib. I am thinking cold or warm salt water has differing results on performance?
alan—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I think I'll start the wife-beating thread now.
John
On Wed, Feb 25, 2009 at 1:13 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
In a message dated 2/25/2009 12:55:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, () writes:
All of us here in the Bahamas are getting a real kick out of this discourse – please keep it up!
~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMA, George Town, Exuma, BahamasGet a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your neighborhood today.
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Jack,
I can't answer your first question as I don't have the anchor platform on Sarah. I do carry two anchors on the bow in separate rollers. A Bruce (primary in the starboard roller) and a Chinese CQR in the port roller. I have had only one occasion when I've had to use the second anchor, but I was really glad it was on the bow and not in a locker. That was when the entire anchorage dragged anchors during a frontal passage with several boats fouling my anchor. I had to cut it free and get out of there. I was thankful the backup anchor was in place and I didn't have to drag it out of locker and up to the bow to set once i was clear of the other boats.In the Bahamas it is not uncommon to set a Bahamanian Moor with two anchors in areas with a strong current and restricted swinging room. I haven't as yet found that anchor configuration necessary so I can't comment on that other than it is normally done without using the dinghy.
As far as what anchor to purchase as your secondary or primary anchor, I'm with Rich I'd rather discuss religious preferences or the allegations of wife-beating. than what anchor someone should purchase.
John
On Tue, Feb 24, 2009 at 7:21 PM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Jack
You're asking for a religious argument here. Its doubtful that two of us would ever agree on what might be the best anchor.
Why do you want two anchors on your bow? I'm trying to visualize how I might set a second anchor without putting it in a dinghy and carting off to wherever I want it dropped. If I'm planning to use the dinghy, I might as well stow it in a lazarette and keep some of the weight off the bow. I keep an FX-85 in there for a storm anchor.
http://www.fortressanchors.com/fortress_anchor_guide.html
I also have a danforth 22HT in there for a backup. I've been considering getting something that is good in weed, maybe a fisherman, but they are too big to handle.
Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob,
When she says “bushing” could she mean the gudgeon that holds the rudder post to the skeg. That might allow the rudder post to move up. I agree, if the rudder post moved more than the distance between the rudder and hull, there must be some sort of structural failure within the rudder.The loss of the rudder on a passage is one of the things I always think about after I depart, never before when the boat is hauled. I gotta get that on my list for the next haulout. I don't even have any good pictures of the rudder to reference while the boat is in the water. I'm actually assuming there is a gudgeon between the rudder and and the hull.
John
On Tue, Feb 24, 2009 at 8:55 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi All!
I have a friend who has left Florida and is now in Isla Mujeres for repairs on their way to the south Pacific. Here's her letter (I'll get her to join the 424 site in a day or so, or will do it for her):
Hey Bob- How are you? We are in Mexico. We left Key West for Belize and in
the middle of the Yucatan Channel, our steerage gave way and we were totally
tossed around and feeling sick and we were able to temporarily get the
steerage working and made our way to the closest port – Isla Mujeres, near
Cancun. We had a very stressful 15 hours of sailing 70 nm – against current
and in huge seas and breaking waves on our stern, but we made it safely and
in good spirits and are resting now and getting ready to leave again – after
we fix the steerage. Thought you might have some experience talking with
other owners about a problem with the bushing that holds the steering post
in the rudder – it vibrated up – we are not sure when it happened exactly,
but we installed our new autopilot in November and then went to the Bahamas
and didn't really have too rough weather until the two days leaving Key West
for Belize – the steering post popped up and dislodged the auto-pilot arm
and jammed it so that we could not steer. It does not appear that it
damaged the auto-pilot arm – we just need to put that back on after we
secure the rudder and steering post connection. Does that make sense? Any
tips on securing the steering post in a new way so that it does not happen
again? When Larry installed the auto-pilot it had already vibrated loose –
from the previous owner's usage – and so it seems to me that it is something
that has happened twice now and we need to find an alternative way of
securing so that it does not happen a 3rd time. I will try and make a post
to the Pearson web page – I tried to do it once before and I got no response
– and I'm not sure if I did it correctly. We are still having issues with
the HAM radio – but we are working with it. We will slowly get it all
together – its fun being in Mexico. I met some great new friends already
today. Let me know how things are going with you. Warmly, Julie
My response to this was that she may have bigger problems as the rudder post is not separate from the rudder – it has arm welded inside and should not move vertically more than the space between the top of the rudder and the hull. If it's more than that, either the arms have broken (common) or they have worked their way vertically in the rudder matrix – either requires serious rudder repair.Has anyone else had this kind of rudder problem?
Thanks,
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Mary,
I second Don & Bob's view that this is a suction side problem. Using Bob's recommendation to determine that you get good water flow from the foot pump you can isolate the problem to the portion of the manifold past the valves and the pressure pump. If you don't get good flow from the foot pump, disconnect the hose from the full tank at the manifold. You should see gravity flow of water from the hose. If so the problem is likely in the gate valve, probably the packing nut Bob mentioned. If not then there might be blockage in the tank hose. Try another tank or double check to insure there is at least 1/2 tank of water.The de-pressurization and re-pressurization of the system probably caused a failing component to finally give way.
BTW, I fought a similar problem for over a month, and found the problem to be a small self-tapping screw that was moving around inside the manifold. It finally lodged itself in the hose barb going to the pump and I found it. I suspect the screw was one of those holding the manifold to the bulkhead and it dropped into one of the tank hoses when I removed and serviced the manifold a few weeks earlier.
John
On Sat, Feb 21, 2009 at 9:13 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hi Mary,It sounds like an air leak in the pump suction. There is probably no causal effect from the faucet change. I'd close all valves on the suction to the water pump except one to a tank with water in it. If you still get air in the cold water system then try opening the valve to the foot pump and see if it pumps without air.
If the foot pump pumps without air, the water pump has a leak in the suction. That may mean a rebuild. No big deal, really.
There is something else, too – Each valve to a tank has a packing nut under the handle. If the valves are really easy to spin open and close then you may need to tighten those nuts – I had to do mine because the one to the port tank's packing dried out and shrank. It gave all sorts of air when I used the port tank. Now it's good to go. It doesn't take a big suction leak.
Bob
On Sat, Feb 21, 2009 at 9:03 PM, mary e. springhorn < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hi, Bob,
No, there is still air coming through the cold water system, but at least I'm getting a goodly supply of water as well. I can't answer as to what kind of pump I have at the moment…I'd have to go and look. I can safely say I don't have empty tanks…I'd topped them off a month or so ago, and don't use all that much in four days out on the water. I haven't tried running the pump with the valves closed, but I can certainly try that experiment. The system worked fine before the faucet change…I'd been out on the boat about a week before hand. BTW, the water heater is not “live”, i.e. it's not being heated by electricity. I don't keep it hot when at the slip. Thanks for your suggestions.Mary
Quote:
Original Message
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Good job, Patrick.
A lot better than I didJohn
On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 3:30 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
3/4″ balsa cored deck for those interested.
http://twitpic.com/1lcswWhew, I was VERY nervous drilling that hole. I need to go each lunch and relax. 🙂
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick's Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Yes, thanks Tor. Good info.
I guess I may just try the reefed mizzen the next time it's blowing in the anchorage.
John
On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 7:11 AM, Thatcher Stone < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Tor, this is saying what I have sometimes intuitively felt about the mizzen. I agree, good article. Thanks for the pointer.<.. snip>
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Joe,
I've been using the Airhead since last May. So far it has worked well. Patrick is right it really works best for non-live aboards who let the compost process work for 4-5 days between weekend usage. That's the main difference between the compost toilets built for dirt-dwellers and onboard systems. The dirt dweller units are much larger and use more power.My experience has been I get around 3 months of usage (1 person) before having to empty the compost bin. With two on-board that period between emptying gets pretty much cut in half. That to me is the limitation. A live-aboard family (3-4 persons) will likely have to empty the bin every 2 weeks. Weekend sailors will likely only have to empty it once or twice per season.
My experience so far is at http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewcompostingheadinstall.htm
John
On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 7:21 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Will do, I will let you know that I have long-term concerns about how this will work out when I'm liveaboard cruising, but I'm 99.9% sure that when I'm using the boat less frequently than every day that it will be great.-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick's Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks for you input Bob. That's probably why I don't see any mizzens set in the anchorage. Don't see any riding sails right now either. The few I've seen have been on sloops, set on the backstay.
Hoping not to have another sail to make or purchase, but I do need to do something about the anchor sailing.
John
On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 5:46 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
John,
I'd assume they're actually using a riding sail on the mizzen mast – it's hanked onto the mizzen topping lift and raised with the mizzen halyard. The tack is usually attached to the boom end with a pennant that allows it to be up off the boom. The clew would then be run forward to one of the mizzen winches.
Or, it could the tack could be on the sternrail with a wire through the luff to the mizzen halyard without being attached to the topping lift or some combination of the above.
I'd think even a reefed mizzen would be too much and pretty hard on the sail.
Now that you mention it, perhaps I'll make one…
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pete,
I assume you are saying the mizzen is your riding sail. Is it fairly flat? Do you reef it in fresh winds? Anything about your mizzen that you think makes it a suitable riding sail?I'm curious why all these other ketches haven't used it when we've all been sailing at anchor.
John
On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 4:54 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I just use my riding sail anytime I anchor… Helps the fixed windbugger windmill mounted on the mizzen mast stay pointed into the wind.
Pete
John Stevenson wrote:
There have been dozens of ketches anchored here in MH over the past month with numerous blows, and several near gales. I don't remember any of them using their mizzen as a riding sail.
John
BTW, there is another P424 (cutter) in the anchorage from Canada, “Northern Rebel”. I don't see the name on the website. I talked briefly with them yesterday, but I had a dinghy full of groceries so I couldn't chat for long. Today is not a good dinghy day. Looks like a young Canadian family. The boat has a hailing port of Sault St. Marie. Anyone familiar with this boat?
John
On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 4:37 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])
I don't remember a discussion of this subject in the past so while
I'm watching Sarah sail back and forth at anchor in 20 – 25 kts of
wind I thought I would bring it up.I don't use my mizzen as a riding sail – primarily because it is
so blown out I think it would increase the sailing at anchor, even
when reefed. I'll probably replace this sail sometime this year,
after I get back to the states. I will likely opt for another
fully battened sail and a single deep reef point. At that point I
will likely start experimenting with it as a riding sail.Anyone had success using the mizzen sail in the manner, and if so
how is your sail configured? Anyone tried this and found it
ineffective or counter productive?— Regards,
John Stevensonhttp://www.svsarah.com <http://www.svsarah.com>
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com <http://www.svsarah.com>
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Quent,
Blowing 20-25 out of SW here, with a few gusts higher. Its a little bumpy and will get bumpier later when the winds go W-NW. MH is pretty open to the WNW (all the way to the Whale). According to the latest GRIB winds should be down to less than 20 by dawn. Guess I won't get much sleep with the rockin'. Fortunately I hit the Buck-A-Book in MH on Monday, so I have plenty to read. Also with the genset working again I can watch DVDs on the TV rather than the computer.John
On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 12:54 PM, james bartch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Aloha to All
in reading the posts, i am assuming that Island Muse is the original layout??? stove w/elect. shut off switch & soleniod near the stove – copper continuious to the locker w/over board vent to transom- second soleniod to the regulator, regulator to tee, tee to pressure gauge then tanks (2).
I really appreciate the tips, saves me a lot of head scratching. I like the idea of placing an access port behind the stove so i can get at the line, I will inspect the vent lines and most likely replace them.
it sounds like if i go to a new supply line i should only add one switch w/ soleniod (at the galley) and keep the run continuious to the regulator?
currenly, i am a bit concerned with is the solenoid & gauges in the locker -they are working but look a little funky. the balance of the line looks to be in pretty good shape, the inside stuff looks great.
Don thanks for the ABCY standards. can you tell me if there are any requirements to lenght of run. I was going to have Fisheries in Seattle make up the line and they need a lenght. mine goes form the Lpg locker (port corner aft) across the transom (inside the locker to starboard) along starboard rail line thru the equipent locker behind the nav station. cross to the cupboard behind the galley down in the galley wall and out. i was thinking of adding a extra loop or so to make sure i do not end up with arun short???
or should i consider a threaded connection (not sweged) on the tank locker side and cut it to lenght after i make the run?? if that is possible?
so far i only noticed the one vent at the locker, looks like i need to look for one more inside?
Island Muse, P 424 #217
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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