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You accurately described my conundrum. I defintiely don’t want to leave the
louvered panel in place and Dawn will kill me if we end up with wet chain in
our bunk. 😉-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 2:52 PM, SilverHeels <> wrote:
Patrick,
I haven’t studied your blog closely, but I gather you’re debating about an
inside vs. outside panel to close off the chain locker from the V-berth. I
have a stainless steel plate on the inside that covers the lower 2/3 to 3/4
of the opening. It slides onto 4 corner bolts set into the bulkhead and
protruding into the chain locker a little and gets tightened on with wing
nuts. Yes, you have to empty the chain out of the locker to remove that SS
plate, but on the V-berth side of the bulkhead is what I suppose is
Pearson’s original, louvered teak hatch/door. That closes off the total
aperture from the inside, but is easily removable to see and reach inside
the locker over the top of the SS plate for quick access in there, like if
you have to topple a chain pyramid. So I guess my suggestion is to do both,
retain the chain with a partial plate covering on the inside, and close off
the aperture with a hatch on the outside.Or did I totally miss what you were talking about? (Sorry, dinner’s burning
on the stove.)Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Yeah Fisheries is just convenient (right by my condo) not cheaper on
everything, but some things.Only cool thing is they track everything if you setup an account and then
you have a completely online copy of everything I’ve bought. Plan to print
that out before we leave town. They also have variable pricing. The more you
spend the deeper your discount.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 12:18 PM, SilverHeels wrote:
Quote:Excellent! Thanks, Patrick. I believe that’s what I bought last time. Just
couldn’t find the data in my files.FYI, the site you mentioned, fisheriessupply.com, is selling that cutlass
bearing for $109.37, but it’s only $69.99 at <
http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/products/navalbrassinchcutlessbearing.aspx>http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/products/navalbrassinchcutlessbearing.aspx.
Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Johnson Duramax Brad
Brad is the part number (why I don’t know)http://www.fisheriessupply.com/productdetail.aspx?iid=JON%20BRAD&cid=18979
Length 6″
Metal Wall (D) 1âOwners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I found no great way to support the wires wen I did my rewire. The original
wiring was primary wire (individual wires), tied in a knot with a glob of
sealant where it exited the mast. The knot provided wire support. I went
with Blue Sea cable clams to support and protect the wire where it exited
the mast. I then P-clipped the wires on the outside of the mast. I was
refinishing my spars at the same time and if I had t to do over I would have
cut the masthead off and put in a kellum to support the wires from the
masthead.Example of before : http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4617533475/
After: http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4747421038/I’m sure it’s going to last long enough till the next electronics upgrade
will be needed.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Dec 7, 2010 at 7:24 PM, Rich Carter <> wrote:
Quote:Adam,
A ground loop within the mast is of no concern since the wires are laced
together and shielded. A problem might arise if there is a ground loop
from
your breaker panel to the base of the mast as might occur if some wires are
fed through different harnesses on the way to the mast. This might
generate
a small magnetic field and cause compass errors, though I’d frankly be
surprised if you could measure any deflection. Of greater concern is
electrical noise that might get generated and show up as noise on your
electronic equipment. This might happen if you operate a strobe light or
horn. The horn in particular could cause problems in anything from your
depthsounder to your autopilot since it consumes a lot of current and is
electrically noisy.Ground loops are hard to avoid on a boat since much of the equipment gets
grounded together through interface cables or chassis grounds. Some
equipment like GPS provide optical isolation in the interface for this
reason, but much of the stuff is not as robust. I suggest avoiding ground
loops where possible. Unless there is some reason to tie grounds together
at the base of your mast you are better off leaving them isolated.Rich
Quote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Your mods sound great Pete. I can’t wait to see the pics!
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Dec 6, 2010 at 6:20 PM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
Has anyone found a good use for the small but long drawers that are forward
in the starboard cabinet in the v-berth cabin?They seem to be a very inefficient use of space. I am considering taking
them out and putting in a cupboard with pull-out trays. Other ideas? I was
thinking about making a cabinet here for all my parts boxes (I use Plano
series 36xx boxes for all the screws, bolts, etc. and have 14 of these in
total. Instead I am looking at making a rack for them under the nav station
table where I used to store binders of manuals, but now almost all the
manuals have been digitized.Also, btw, as part of the interior rework, I am taking the v-berth
removable insert and making it fixed and then putting a door on the
resultant space underneath and a shelf at the lower station of for the
insert. The pullman berth drawers have been reworked so now there are
four, extra long drawers on stainless sliders with nice easy-to-use latches
yielding about 25% more usable storage space and an extra compartment under
the mattress. The sliding lee bard on the pullman berth also worked out
really nicely. Full article coming soon…Pete
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!My experience in dealing with my local boatyard is that everyone in the yard
has excellent trade skills and are very good at their individual technology
area. No one in the yard is a skilled project manager or has the ability to
take in an entire project, manage all the details and make sure all the
various phases of the project are done in the most desirable order for the
Owner.So I stay on top of everything they do, ask a lot of questions and treat
them like my own employees instead of partners. It’s working much better
that way for ME, not sure about how they feel, but don’t really care too
much since the yard is pretty empty and I’m the one writing checks. 😉-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 1:26 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:As in pulled the mast with the table still attached? LOL!!!On 12/2/2010 12:33 PM, Adamlaw wrote:
Quote:This yard tried to pull my folding cabin table through the little hole in
the coachroof. They are well-meaning.Adam Silverstein
-iPhoneOn Dec 2, 2010, at 1:48 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”<
> wrote:IMHO, this is one of those have the yard do it things.
Quote:-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 7:54 AM, Pete Dubler
wrote:In the boat, you might try this tool
Quote:http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-composite-air-cut-off-tool-95028.html again, starting by drawing the line all the way around the mast. (wear a
dust mask when using this)I have one of these and use it to cut off things in places where I can’t
easily work with a saw.Pete
On 12/2/2010 7:03 AM, wrote:
This might make the job easier that a sawsall since its smaller and
Quote:could
probably be easier to position around the mast. I’m sure it would cut
aluminum with no trouble.http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-body-saw-65766.html
harbor freight just opened a store down the road here in NH. Life gets
better and better…Rich
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Sorry no idea on that. I’d ping Beckson.
The NFM portholes are bomber if installed properly. I had some issues with
my install that I’m sorting out. It was my first crack at this kind of thing
though so chock that up to lack of experience as opposed to anything with
the portholes themselves.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 11:56 AM, Adam <> wrote:
Are these new ports a better design or will they leak like the old ports?
How are the ports from new found metals?
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!IMHO, this is one of those have the yard do it things.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 7:54 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:In the boat, you might try this tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-composite-air-cut-off-tool-95028.html again, starting by drawing the line all the way around the mast. (wear a
dust mask when using this)I have one of these and use it to cut off things in places where I can’t
easily work with a saw.Pete
On 12/2/2010 7:03 AM, wrote:
Quote:This might make the job easier that a sawsall since its smaller and could
probably be easier to position around the mast. I’m sure it would cut
aluminum with no trouble.http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-body-saw-65766.html
harbor freight just opened a store down the road here in NH. Life gets
better and better…Rich
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I have three bilge pumps.
1. The primary is wired with a Rule three-way
switch<http://www.ittflowcontrol.com/marine-and-rv/bilge/rule-switches/45-3-way-panel-switch.htm>at
the panel and is supplied and fused after the battery selector switch
(i.e. Battery OFF = No Bilge Pumps). When in auto it is operated by
a Rule-a-matic
Plus float switch<http://www.ittflowcontrol.com/marine-and-rv/bilge/rule-switches/rule-a-matic-plus-float-switch.htm>.
The hose from the bilge to the exit has an inline check valve to limit the
amount of water that runs back in when the pump stops pumping (I can keep it
down to about 1/4″ deep). It is sitting directly on it’s own strainer in the
aft most section of the bilge. It needs to be secured to the hull still.
2. The second higher capacity pump is wired to the breaker panel. It is
mounted to a 1″ tall riser and 99.9% it is sitting high and dry in the
forward part of the bilge. This needs to be secured to the hull still.
3. The Third is the manual bilge pump operated from the cockpit with a
handle. It has a Perko bilge
strainer<http://www.perko.com/catalog/category/underwater_hardware/product/287/>on
the inboard end. It also needs to be secured still.All of the bilge pumps exit the hull above the waterline, at the stern.
Ideally the thru-hulls would have closing flaps on them to prevent a
following sea from entering the bilge hoses. It’s on the list. 😉Good reference material:
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/14.htm
<http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/14.htm>
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/06.htm
<http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/06.htm>”High-capacity Electric Bilge
Pumps” Practical Sailor Sept 2010Hope that helps
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Nov 18, 2010 at 7:45 AM, kalinowski <>wrote:
Lady Leanne’s haul out is rapidly approaching, and my mind is reviewing all
of the out-of-water projects possible. One that “floats” to the top of the
list is the addition of another (high capacity) bilge pump or two mounted
higher in the sump. Recommendations from articles I have read indicate that
a 40′ boat should have a 4,000 GPH capacity, which doesn’t include the “day
to day” pump in the bottom of the sump and the manual (which should be
considered as a reserve powered by a motivated skipper).Has anyone installed another pump or two higher in the bilge? Where did
you mount the through hulls? Did you use seacocks? Would marelon be
appropriate (certainly cheaper)?I’ve also read that the system should be redundant, with no shared lines or
hull fittings. Comments?Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!http://www.usps.org/national/vsc/conductvsc_files/USCGMinReq.pdf
<http://www.usps.org/national/vsc/conductvsc_files/USCGMinReq.pdf>-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Nov 16, 2010 at 2:32 AM, Lee Yonkers <> wrote:
Yesterday a fellow on the adjacent dock told me we are no longer required
to
have a ship’s bell.Is this true? If so what, if any thing, replaces the bell?
Lee
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!If there is enough meat there you could bolt on a new eye to the nub.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 11:03 AM, kalinowski <>wrote:
Tor: Interestingly, the weld on the tang held. It snapped in half
horizontally across the hole. I filed down the rough edges for obvious
reasons.I kind of like the idea of a pad eye on the rear coming if I can keep it
out of the way.Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Yeah we’ve been talkin’ smack about all of you. I was wondering why there
were no comebacks. 😉s/v Indulgence is looking good on the Carrib 1500.
http://www.carib1500.com/Trackerclass45.htm-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Fri, Nov 12, 2010 at 5:58 AM, pat noordsij wrote:
The list is not quiet. Unfortunately Comcast is blocking the list again.
I’ve been working on it for about a week. I was promised it would be fixed
by yesterday. As you see that hasn’t happened yet.You can see all the activity online.. but I can’t get it delivered to
Comcast yet.Sorry
– pat
wrote, On 11/12/10 7:48 AM:
No messages for quite a few days. Is everyone out sailing or is the list
server broken?
Rich
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!It will totally depend on the size of the wires you’re running.
I was pulling fully insulated wires (i.e., not individual primary wires) and
I used 1-1/2″ PVC. I was able to find the class 200 at Lowe’s. There are
some pics of us putting the conduit together here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/tags/systemselectrical/The picture with the wires and the foam on them is the old original wiring.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 2:43 PM, Adamlaw wrote:
What diameter PVC? My sticks are out and waiting for updating.
Adam Silverstein
-iPhoneOn Nov 11, 2010, at 2:43 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” <
> wrote:I also had the yard attach the conduit. They used two sets of rivets side
by
side.
You use a “hanger” to pull on the PVC via one hole and rivet the other.
Then you move to the next set of holes and do the same.I used a lighter weight PVC (class 200) than schedule 40 because it saved
about 20 pounds.Once the conduit was attached I used a snake to pull a line for each wire
and pulled the wires. I was also redoing all my wiring and lights at the
same time.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 7:39 PM, John Stevenson <
>wrote:
Skip,
I left that job to the boatyard. The method was similar to what you are
considering, but I decided to let the guys who have done this many times
have the job.Basically you drill holes in the mast wall for the pop-rivets then drill
a
second set holes slightly off-set from the pop-rivet holes. Slide the
conduit with wires into the mast, then run a wire hook (e.g. coathanger)
into the mast through the first of the secondary holes, grab the conduit
and
pull it tight against the mast wall. Drill a hole in the conduitthrough
the pop-rivet hole, then secure the conduit with a pop-rivet. Move on to
the
next and repeat the process until the conduit is secured from bottom to
top. Then fill the secondary holes with more pop-rivets or self-taping
screws.
Some people recommend pre-drilling the pop-rivet holes in the conduit(to
avoid drilling into the wires), but that requires precise measurement.
Not
sure which approach the boatyard used on my mast.
On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 10:00 PM, skipmac
wrote:
@john stevenson wrote:
You can convert to internal halyards without pulling the mast, but it
is
advisable to put all the electrical wires in a conduit. something
Pearson
did not do on at least the early models. That will require pulling the
stick. I always convert simple projects into complex ones.Hi John,
Am doing the conversion to 4 internal halyards and also wanted to pull
conduit for the wires. Your website mentioned you pop riveted theconduit
to the mast which was also my plan but so far have not come up with a
simple
sounding method to do so.
Running the wires into the conduit and pushing that up the mast (yes
it’s
out of the boat) no problem but how to drill holes through the mast and
into
the conduit with having a trained muskrat to run up the inside of the
mast
to hold the conduit in place while drilling?
The best idea I have so far is to drill a couple of initial holes to
run
a
line inside the mast, around the conduit, back out the hole and tie off
to
capture the conduit and hold it in place. Then drill the rest of the
holes
and rivet in place. So, how did you do it?
Thanks
Skip_______________________________________________
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John Stevenson
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I also had the yard attach the conduit. They used two sets of rivets side by
side.
You use a “hanger” to pull on the PVC via one hole and rivet the other.
Then you move to the next set of holes and do the same.I used a lighter weight PVC (class 200) than schedule 40 because it saved
about 20 pounds.Once the conduit was attached I used a snake to pull a line for each wire
and pulled the wires. I was also redoing all my wiring and lights at the
same time.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 7:39 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Skip,
I left that job to the boatyard. The method was similar to what you are
considering, but I decided to let the guys who have done this many times
have the job.Basically you drill holes in the mast wall for the pop-rivets then drill a
second set holes slightly off-set from the pop-rivet holes. Slide the
conduit with wires into the mast, then run a wire hook (e.g. coat hanger)
into the mast through the first of the secondary holes, grab the conduit
and
pull it tight against the mast wall. Drill a hole in the conduit through
the pop-rivet hole, then secure the conduit with a pop-rivet. Move on to
the
next and repeat the process until the conduit is secured from bottom to
top. Then fill the secondary holes with more pop-rivets or self-taping
screws.
Some people recommend pre-drilling the pop-rivet holes in the conduit (to
avoid drilling into the wires), but that requires precise measurement. Not
sure which approach the boatyard used on my mast.On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 10:00 PM, skipmac wrote:
@john stevenson wrote:
You can convert to internal halyards without pulling the mast, but it is
advisable to put all the electrical wires in a conduit. something Pearson
did not do on at least the early models. That will require pulling the
stick. I always convert simple projects into complex ones.Hi John,
Am doing the conversion to 4 internal halyards and also wanted to pull
conduit for the wires. Your website mentioned you pop riveted theconduit
to the mast which was also my plan but so far have not come up with a
simple
sounding method to do so.
Running the wires into the conduit and pushing that up the mast (yes it’s
out of the boat) no problem but how to drill holes through the mast andinto
the conduit with having a trained muskrat to run up the inside of the
mast
to hold the conduit in place while drilling?
The best idea I have so far is to drill a couple of initial holes to run
a
line inside the mast, around the conduit, back out the hole and tie off
to
capture the conduit and hold it in place. Then drill the rest of the
holes
and rivet in place. So, how did you do it?
Thanks
Skip_______________________________________________
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I replaced my sheaves and halyards. At the same time I ran my halyards
internally so I went from 2 halyards on the main and 1 on the mizzen to 4
and 2 respectively. I also added a PVC conduit as John mentions.
I had a problem with the 1/2″ lines on the main sail halyard when I did
this. The splice was getting hung up in the sheave due to the tight turn.
This was not a problem on the genoa halyard (1/2″ XLS Extra) as the hoist is
at an angle to the sheave. I went to a smaller diameter high-tech line on
the main mast halyards (3/8″ Warpspeed), left the Genoa at 1/2″ and used
3/8″ XLS on the mizzen mast.Hmm…. I’m not 100% sure it’s warpseed now that I re-read that. I can
verify if you need to know for sure.
I used XLS Extra because I had previously replaced my wirerope Genoa
halyard with Stay-Set-X and found it to be too stiff over time and hard to
manage the line.I bought my sheaves at Zephyrwerks: http://zephyrwerks.com/ (Prices are Feb
2010)
Main mast 4 – 4.75″ x .625″ x .625″ grooved for
1/2″ line @ $56 each
Mizzen mast – 2 – 2″ x .468″ x .375″ grooved for 3/8″ line @ $30 each
I also had new pins made for the main masthead I sent in the old ones @ $50
each
Mizzen sheave pins were replaced with off the shelf pins.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 9:58 AM, John Stevenson wrote:
+1 on using StaSet-x or similar from other manufacturers. It has a
straight
mono-filament core rather than a braided core (regular StaSet double
braid). I’ve found StaSet-X much easier for eye-splicing than StaSet or
other double braids, although it is certainly much more difficult than for
3-strand or single braid. I have all rope halyards, all StaSet-X. I
replaced the masthead wire/rope sheaves with rope sheaves, but that is
probably not necessary. IMO, the amount of stretch in StaSet-X over wire
is
not significant for a cruising boat like the 424.
I also converted to internal halyards, which gives me two fore-sail
halyards
instead of one (also 2 main halyards). That’s something you might consider
for hauling people up the mast. You won’t have to drop the genoa to have a
halyard to pull people up the front of the mast. Of course you could just
use the main halyard, but that can be a little awkward for working on the
front of the mast.
You can convert to internal halyards without pulling the mast, but it is
advisable to put all the electrical wires in a conduit. something Pearson
did not do on at least the early models. That will require pulling the
stick. I always convert simple projects into complex ones.On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 10:36 AM, SilverHeels
wrote:Rodd,
I use Sta-Set X line for the halyards. They claim it doesn’t stretch
under
load. It’s a little awkward to coil for the first year or so – a bit
stiff
–
but it doesn’t need adjustment once it’s set.FYI, I replaced my roller furling genoa halyard with an all-wire set-up
to
get rid of that big, permanent coil of line at the mast’s port base.
Since
Quote:I
only drop the furling genoa once every couple of years or so the
inconvenience factor is minimal.Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silv erheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
