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Oh I forgot to mention, we went to Port Townsend and picked them up so that
saved us some $ too,. but we had that option…
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Oct 19, 2011 at 4:48 AM, joe shimkonis wrote:
Quote:List price in 2010-1379 for 6 or 229 each.With boat show discount,shipping
cost $115,teak frames,screens,the total came to $1800.The teak frames are
needed because the cabin sides are too thin.
Also-you should specify what length bolt you need other wise you’ll have to
cut them.Also includes a template for hole drilling-can be returned for a
refund.________________________________
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I’m talking about the owner. The guy in their youtube videos.
http://www.youtube.com/user/newfoundmetals-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Oct 19, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:Thanks Patrick,
When you say “he”, which of their folks are you referring to.
I find Teri who answers the phone (she) to be very, very helpful.Pete
On 10/18/2011 5:36 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Quote:We love ours, haven’t put in the screens yet. We had the advantage of
being
able to stop in in Port Townsend and having him come down and personally
assist replacing a bad gasket. I was happy he was going to drop it off. On
the phone he would be very difficult to talk to, in person he’s eccentric
to
say the least. 😉Our prices in 2009 were:
5×12 $209
3×17 $359.82I ordered others as well… but those are the only prices I have handy.
Rent the templates and buy the counter bore, its very turnkey with his
tools.We had leaks with just the hull and teak thickness. We attributed this to
not cutting the holes big enough. You want them to flat on the butyl and a
barely thick enough cross section. We’re popping them out and putting in
the
teak spacers when we’re bored. Ya know we have the parts and we’re never
going to do it. 😉Some people have complained about the quality of the teak spacers, if you
get them, you might ask about that which would make them play closer
attention.Best of luck
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Tue, Oct 18, 2011 at 3:54 PM, Pete Dubler
wrote:thanks. I will address this with them.
Quote:On 10/18/2011 4:17 PM, Alan wrote:put them in in 09, just before I left on my trip. I talked to the owner,
Quote:a
tough guy to get a hold of and told him what I thought. I think they
were
making some changes. But too late for me.alan
— On Tue, 10/18/11, Pete Dubler wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!We love ours, haven’t put in the screens yet. We had the advantage of being
able to stop in in Port Townsend and having him come down and personally
assist replacing a bad gasket. I was happy he was going to drop it off. On
the phone he would be very difficult to talk to, in person he’s eccentric to
say the least. 😉Our prices in 2009 were:
5×12 $209
3×17 $359.82I ordered others as well… but those are the only prices I have handy.
Rent the templates and buy the counter bore, its very turnkey with his
tools.We had leaks with just the hull and teak thickness. We attributed this to
not cutting the holes big enough. You want them to flat on the butyl and a
barely thick enough cross section. We’re popping them out and putting in the
teak spacers when we’re bored. Ya know we have the parts and we’re never
going to do it. 😉Some people have complained about the quality of the teak spacers, if you
get them, you might ask about that which would make them play closer
attention.Best of luck
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Tue, Oct 18, 2011 at 3:54 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:thanks. I will address this with them.On 10/18/2011 4:17 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:put them in in 09, just before I left on my trip. I talked to the owner, a
tough guy to get a hold of and told him what I thought. I think they were
making some changes. But too late for me.alan
— On Tue, 10/18/11, Pete Dubler wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Nigel Calder is doing a lot of research into this. When I last heard him
speak 2 (maybe 3) years ago at the Seattle Boat Show he was saying with
current technology using a generator and batteries to drive an electric
engine didn’t add-up (i.e., it was less efficient). Now he said if you add
in some solar, or wind generators, and for sailboats using the spinning prop
to generate then its possible, but he didn’t have a lot of data on that. He
did have data on the pure generator battery solution though and he said
diesels still win in that solution.That of course was a pure power and efficiency comparison, it says nothing
about the joy of quietness!I’m looking forward to his future publications in this area.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Oct 15, 2011 at 7:25 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:According to the calculations done when I was researching a new engine,
accounting for transmission/v-drive losses, etc., it takes about 36 HP going
into the velvet drive to achieve hull speed of a 424.And there are between 55 and 74 million bubbles in the average bottle of
champagne (sparkling wine)… a fact you will probably get more utility out
of at New Year’s Eve parties…Pete
On 10/14/2011 8:53 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:There is no right or wrong here. To accept the current shortcomings of
electric proplusion, you only have to start at the other end of the
spectrum, i.e., with a pure sailboat. Back in the day that’s all there
was. Then came auxilliary engines meant to assist in tight
circumstances. Remember how comparitively small they used to be? Their
function was essentially to move the boat around in harbor, not to power
through anything and everything, 24/7. Today we cruise in, if not
motor-sailers, then sailer-motorers. We rely on our engines. But that’s
just a state of mind. You can cruise without. The Pardy’s did; so did
many others not so long ago (including me for a few years aboard my
engineless Ketch Autant). Starting from that point, from a plain
sailboat, a 25-30 hp auxilliary propulsion system becomes a terrific
asset. It’s a matter of perspective, and of what you seek from sailing.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Looks like truck bed liner, which is what my friend used to cover up
and seal his teak foredeck on his power boat. It looked really good
after… They did a LOT of prep sanding.Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 15, 2011, at 7:34 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
This is interesting stuff… but the demo of a screen door on the bottom of a boat is brilliant!
Pete
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Yep, All the wires to/from my alternator are 2/0 as is the wire to the
starter from the starting battery and all of my battery cables for
that matter.-p
Sent from my iPhoneOn Oct 13, 2011, at 4:01 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:“My PO just used the bonding
terminals in the electrical panel as NEG.”
True, because of that, the bonding wire does have a NEG potential (respect to POS or +12), but they are not supposed to be used as NEG RETURNS.
Not sure what kind of alternator you have, but if it’s NOT case grounded, your NEG cable on the alternator should be as big as the POS cable. Is it?
Alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!On my engine on the port side one of the bolts to the starter goes to the
bonding wire to the prop strut.
On the starboard side, above the Temp Switch there is a bonding wire and a
NEG wire that goes to the battery NEG.
That is probably because my old Alternator was case grounded (i.e. NEG went
through the foot to the block) so it had to get back to the battery somehow.
So in the old system the NEG and the Bonding were connected.
Because of this, or maybe because of ignorance, My PO just used the bonding
terminals in the electrical panel as NEG.Since we plan on leaving Monterey tomorrow and head around Pt Concepcion,
I’m going to leave everything as-is for now and the Link Pro will stay in
the box. Its obvious I have a larger wiring project on my hands. I did make
the change to hook the alternator directly to the House bank and now the
starting battery is charged through the Blue Sea ACR.Not being able to install the LinkPro is kind of sad because I just dropped
in 6 new Interstate GC2-XHD-S which are the replacements for the U2200 which
came with the boat. They are also a tiny bit larger at 239 Ah vs
220Ah. Interstate was great do deal with. They came by in their delivery
truck, dropped the new batteries off on the deck and took away the old cores
for $100.95 per battery. That was a great deal because when I talked to the
guy on the phone, I thought they were $195. 😉Wish us luck as we head South again. We’ll get this wiring cleaned up and
LinkPro installed in either San Diego or Mexico after the Baja Ha-Ha!Viva Mexico!
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Oct 12, 2011 at 11:15 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:I do believe though when I had my engine out, the bonding wire for the
strut is connected to the same bolt on the port side of the engine block as
the grounding cable. On the Stb side of the engine, the bottom starter
mounting bolt, is the continuation of the bonding to the strainer and other
devices.
Alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Do tell us what you end up doing to go electric… Its definitely something I plan on looking so to shown the W58 gives up.
-p
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On Oct 11, 2011, at 6:44 PM, “kalinowski” wrote:
Aloha Quent: I also replaced my original exhaust manifold pre 1981 with the newer flowtroller unit after one of the elbows on the original disintegrated. (I bought a later edition W-58 for spares and cannibalize it when needed.) Replumbing took some moxy but got it to work.
My upper housing is a solid piece (upper meaning the part you take off to replace the thermostat). Perhaps the one you have is a “newer” version with a bleed valve? The only bleed valve I am aware of is the one on the flowcontroller exhaust manifold. If there’s a bleed valve on the lower thermostat housing, I guess I’ll have to “Gumby” around the corner to find it.
Looking forward to going totally electric and getting rid of this fire breather 58. I’m getting quotes from an electric propulsion company now to repower. No more sound. No more fuel. No more fumes.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Is this the boat.
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/index.php/Interior-Modifications/album01-p
Sent from my iPad
On Oct 11, 2011, at 6:03 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi All,
I’m in the middle of a delivery to Charleston and who should I spy in
Beautort, NC but One Eighty, Charles and Quentin’s 424. They’ve just
brought the boat from the Great Lakes to the Hudson to Norfolk to here.
Welcome them!One Eighty is in terrific shape and I hope Charles sends a picture of what
they or the PO did to the nav station (hint, it’s a big hanging locker
now).Anyway, that’s the news for today.
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!You just turn them, they screw in (I.e., down) and open and air or fluid will come out. Attest that’s how I did it anyway. Maybe I wasn’t correct.
Sent from my iPad
On Oct 11, 2011, at 7:25 AM, “kalinowski” wrote:
Aloha Quent: You mentioned a bleed valve on the thermostat cover. I wasn’t aware of this. Can you tell this aspiring gearhead how to bleed this. I am aware of the other bleed valve on the manifold as I have completely rebuilt the cooling system (I replaced the old manifold with the newer model as the old one corroded with pinholes…fun project). I’m not at the boat for another few weeks.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama (#135)
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!It never went over 180 in recent years, the only time it did that was way
back when I bought the boat. It stays right at 180 all the time now.Your second part explains what I wanted to confirm which the manual is
unclear about. Once you add the external tank to the W58, you fill and check
level there, the lower fill is only for if you have no external tank (like
on a generator implementation of the W58).Thanks for confirming my gut feeling!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Mon, Oct 10, 2011 at 12:34 PM, quent wrote:
Hey P-
It would be helpful to know how much over 180 degrees the engine went, and
what engine speed you went for 36 hours. The radiator cap on the exhaust
manifold is not the coolant fill. You were correct to add coolant to the
overflow tank, which also has a pressure cap.
There are vents to bleed air from the system on the exhaust manifold and
on the thermostat top cover and there should be no air in the system below
the coolant overflow tank. I think that you have some air in the system.
The W-58 in Clairebuoyant stays at 180 which is the rated opening
temperature on the factory t-stat.
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Maybe there was a barrel of vodka glassed into your keel and its leaking!
Now you can drink it!-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Oct 8, 2011 at 7:38 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:Good thinking Joe.Taste the water. Is it fresh (chlorinated) or salty?
On 10/8/2011 6:16 PM, joe shimkonis wrote:
Quote:Did you have your water pressure on? I had a pin hole leak in one of the
tubings to the shower and behind the shower.I only discovered it when it got
bad enough to make a hissing noise.Figure out if the leak is city water or
salt water.I agree with “Tonto” that with a prop shaft penetrating the
hull,a rudder post,thru hulls,itis probably a leakyfitting as opposed to a
leak in the hull or keel.All my leaks adding water to the bilge have been
either rain water,water pressure system,or tubing connections bringing salt
water into the boat for the head,AC,or Refrig cooling,or over filling the
water tanks.______________________________**__
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I do, but I have Limited data here. Check http://Flickr.com/photos/deepplaya
I think they are up there too.
-pSent from my iPhone
On Oct 4, 2011, at 2:01 PM, Alan wrote:
Does anyone have the 424 logo or Pearson artwork in a file I can use to make up some boat cards?
Thanks
Alan
UNABATED
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!MPPT controllers on avg give you 30% more charge.
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On Sep 27, 2011, at 3:50 PM, quent wrote:
Very interesting. Is there any data on how much additional AH from one of these units compared to a conventional controller? We have a Sunforce 30 watt unit that came with the 4 80 watt panels. They cost about $70.
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Checking the heat is a good suggestion. I’m going to leave everything as-is
for now. I think we’re going to upgrade our Solar capacity and if needed
replace our batteries in San Diego so I’ll make this all “right” (whetever
that means) at that time.-p
On Mon, Sep 26, 2011 at 4:14 PM, quent wrote:
Regarding which bank to hook to the switched side of the combiner, if you
have a large house bank, anchor for a couple days, then start the engine,
the house bank is going to suck up most of the alternator output. The start
battery, if everything is working right, will be already well charged and
quickly replace the small discharge required to start the engine.
I really don’t think you want the much larger current to the house bank
going through the switch in the combiner.
Since the VR sense lead needs to be on the alternator side of the combiner
switch, any voltage drop in the combiner will reduce charging efficiency on
the switched bank. No big deal on the start battery, but a problem on the
house bank
You might also want to get one of those IR thermometers and check the
connections for heat.
John: Jumper cables.
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
