[Hull152_Patrick]

The guy at Englund is really convinced you charge the starting battery
first, it was actually getting a little uncomfortable talking about it.

The guy from Balmar was adamant that the MC614 was a house bank charge
regulator (huh?) and we should be using a Duo-Charge (or the ACR) to charge
the start battery, not the other way around.

Everyone seems baffled the ACR could have caused this but in reading the
manual I think I see why:

“Internal time delay prevents relay action for transient conditions, voltage

must be within range for approximately one minute to cause closure, relay
will open when overvoltage is detected for approximately 15 seconds.”

When I reproduced this at the dock, the voltage definitely ramped up in less
than a minute. Moving the sensor wire to be on the same side as the charge
voltage, regardless if its the start or house bank, will eliminate the
regulator from doing that.

I think I’m going to get out of dodge as-is and get some more input in
California.

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Mon, Sep 26, 2011 at 1:32 PM, John Stevenson wrote:

Patrick,
Just so you know you have company, my ACR is wired as yours was –
alternator
output to the start bank, then to the house bank when the starting battery
voltage > 13.1 VDC. Like you, I thought it made sense to treat the start
battery as the critical bank.

Then the original combiner (a Yandina, not Blue Sea) failed. In the middle
of the night my crew woke me to say the entire boat just went dark – chart
plotter, autopilot, instruments and lights. I checked the batteries and
sure enough the house bank was under 10.5 VDC and the starter bank was
really happy at 13.6 VDC. It took me a few minutes to realize the combiner
had failed and only the starter bank was getting a charge. Then I threw
the
switch to combine the batteries on the backside of the combiner. A few
seconds later all of the electronics were back in operation and I could go
back to sleep.

Strangely enough, when I replaced the failed Yandina with the Blue Sea ACR
I
still kept the Starter bank as the primary for charging. I still wasn’t
convinced it was the wrong way to go. Subsequent thinking and reading on
this issue has convinced me I have it backwards, just haven’t gotten around
to re-wiring. I also bought the remote control switch for the Blue Sea ACR
to manually combine the batteries. That hasn’t been installed either. I
do
like to think hard and long on these projects. Some would call it
procrastination. I prefer to think of it as the thoroughness of a
craftsman.

Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

On Mon, Sep 26, 2011 at 3:25 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:

Thanks for all the ideas let me try and answer the questions and provide

a

bit more background.

I originally thought you were supposed to put all the charge inputs on

the

house and use the ACR to charge the starting battery as well. The guy

here

at the local Chandlery convinced me it was more important to ensure the
starting battery was serviced first in case of a failure of the ACR,

which

made sense to me. So we wired the alternator to the starting battery. We
now
definitely know it was wrong to have the 12V sensor wire and the charge
loads on different sides of the ACR. Read about that in the blog post.

The

question now is it OK to rely on the ACR to charge the house battery…
everyone seems to say we shouldn’t do it that way (including Rich at
Balmar)
but I’ve not heard a technical reason why. Seems like as long as the ACR
combines you’re charging everything anyway… The ACR isnt’ a “smart”
combiner that uncombines when the 2nd bank is full.

Anyway, I am thinking I’ll go that route anyway so we’re in compliance

with

the normal way. In fact, I’m thinking I might get rid of the ACR from the
system and add a smarter combiner like the Balmar
Duo-Charge or
Xantrex Echo Charge<

http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-accessories/auxiliary-battery-charger.aspx

someone

else mentioned. They seem even smarter than the ACR. Going to
confirm with Monty today and make a decision before shipping for the day
ends.

*Quent*, I don’t think it was a voltage drop issue. I used 2/0 wire all
under 12′ lengths. The original problem was a timing issue of the ACR not
combining the batteries while the regulator was sensing one bank and
charging another.

*Pete*, the regulator is on the defaults now which is the Universal

Factory

Program (UFP) which should be fine for all batteries. I’ll switch to the
flooded mode for sure, but the UFP shouldn’t cause any issues.

Someone asked about the type of the starting battery. The new starting
battery is a sealed lead acid. It’s not an AGM.

Like I mentioned I think we’re going to wire everything to the house bank
and use the ACR or a smarter combiner to charge the starting battery.

Looks like the weather is bad till Thursday, so plenty of time to get

this

right! 🙂
-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Mon, Sep 26, 2011 at 4:09 AM, Robert Fine wrote:

Hi Pat,

Alan is correct. Use the house bank for monitoring and charging, using

the

ACR to charge the start battery. After all, you can start the engine

with

the house bank, I hope, but not run ship’s loads with the engine start
battery.

Also, make sure you have all the same type of batteries. Don’t do

flooded

for engine start and AGM for house. You may have mentioned the types,

so

this could be an unuseful comment.

Good luck. It’s good to have 660 hours – I have that (almost) in 3 –

4D

batteries and seldom go much below about 80% charged – with the new

solar

panels, not even that. I have two group 31s for emergency start and

radio

operation. Normally, I use the house bank exclusively with the other
tested
by starting the engine whenever I think about it.

Bob

On Mon, Sep 26, 2011 at 6:33 AM, Alan wrote:

I have always have had the Alternator charging the house bank – it’s

the

biggest need.
When you think about it, you only crank the start battery for a few

seconds

and really don’t take much power from it. SO .. I set it up to charge

the

house bank – the ACR is set up to turn ON when it sees a voltage

condition

from the Alternator over a certain level. Because the sense wire is

on

the

house bank. When that happens, the contacts close and charges the

starting

battery “at the same time”.
Probably 100% of the time the house bank is going to be at a much

lower

level (discharged) then the starting battery ( unless your really

cranking

and having trouble starting the engine. In which case your probably

going

to

be using the battery switch to combine the the house bank and

starting

bank

anyhow.
Alan

— On Sun, 9/25/11, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <

Quote:

Quote:

wrote:

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

Thanks for all the ideas let me try and answer the questions and provide a
bit more background.

I originally thought you were supposed to put all the charge inputs on the
house and use the ACR to charge the starting battery as well. The guy here
at the local Chandlery convinced me it was more important to ensure the
starting battery was serviced first in case of a failure of the ACR, which
made sense to me. So we wired the alternator to the starting battery. We now
definitely know it was wrong to have the 12V sensor wire and the charge
loads on different sides of the ACR. Read about that in the blog post. The
question now is it OK to rely on the ACR to charge the house battery…
everyone seems to say we shouldn’t do it that way (including Rich at Balmar)
but I’ve not heard a technical reason why. Seems like as long as the ACR
combines you’re charging everything anyway… The ACR isnt’ a “smart”
combiner that uncombines when the 2nd bank is full.

Anyway, I am thinking I’ll go that route anyway so we’re in compliance with
the normal way. In fact, I’m thinking I might get rid of the ACR from the
system and add a smarter combiner like the Balmar
Duo-Charge or
Xantrex Echo Chargesomeone
else mentioned. They seem even smarter than the ACR. Going to
confirm with Monty today and make a decision before shipping for the day
ends.

*Quent*, I don’t think it was a voltage drop issue. I used 2/0 wire all
under 12′ lengths. The original problem was a timing issue of the ACR not
combining the batteries while the regulator was sensing one bank and
charging another.

*Pete*, the regulator is on the defaults now which is the Universal Factory
Program (UFP) which should be fine for all batteries. I’ll switch to the
flooded mode for sure, but the UFP shouldn’t cause any issues.

Someone asked about the type of the starting battery. The new starting
battery is a sealed lead acid. It’s not an AGM.

Like I mentioned I think we’re going to wire everything to the house bank
and use the ACR or a smarter combiner to charge the starting battery.

Looks like the weather is bad till Thursday, so plenty of time to get this
right! 🙂
-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Mon, Sep 26, 2011 at 4:09 AM, Robert Fine wrote:

Hi Pat,

Alan is correct. Use the house bank for monitoring and charging, using the
ACR to charge the start battery. After all, you can start the engine with
the house bank, I hope, but not run ship’s loads with the engine start
battery.

Also, make sure you have all the same type of batteries. Don’t do flooded
for engine start and AGM for house. You may have mentioned the types, so
this could be an unuseful comment.

Good luck. It’s good to have 660 hours – I have that (almost) in 3 – 4D
batteries and seldom go much below about 80% charged – with the new solar
panels, not even that. I have two group 31s for emergency start and radio
operation. Normally, I use the house bank exclusively with the other
tested
by starting the engine whenever I think about it.

Bob

On Mon, Sep 26, 2011 at 6:33 AM, Alan wrote:

I have always have had the Alternator charging the house bank – it’s the
biggest need.
When you think about it, you only crank the start battery for a few

seconds

and really don’t take much power from it. SO .. I set it up to charge the
house bank – the ACR is set up to turn ON when it sees a voltage

condition

from the Alternator over a certain level. Because the sense wire is on

the

house bank. When that happens, the contacts close and charges the

starting

battery “at the same time”.
Probably 100% of the time the house bank is going to be at a much lower
level (discharged) then the starting battery ( unless your really

cranking

and having trouble starting the engine. In which case your probably going

to

be using the battery switch to combine the the house bank and starting

bank

Quote:

anyhow.
Alan

— On Sun, 9/25/11, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters
wrote:

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

Sorry, wrong list. My friends have a mailboat@… list and this
comes up first frequently.

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

t
On Sat, Sep 24, 2011 at 9:54 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> werote:

Anyone remember the Big Yellow Boat in The Sloop? Wellit tied up next to
us. Ithad a fire years back and these two guyshave been fixing it up. She’s
called Reisendorf now (German for Traveler).

It’s a small world!
-pea

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

Almost everything that hasn’t been re-done was just screwed directly into
the core on our boat (turtles). We drilled a larger hole from the top and
did not go all the way through, removed the core around, filled with epoxy,
drilled a new hole and used the same screws or similiarly sized ones. Now
the screws can’t leak into the core.

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Sat, Sep 24, 2011 at 6:28 PM, Chuck Ruble wrote:

I lifted the ring today. You are right, nothing but self tapping screws.
I see why the sealant can be compromised so easily.
I’m going to pull the stick this week and clean it up properly. I would
think that if the ring (partner) were through bolted to the underside of the
cabin top it could be properly bedded and remain sealed. My thought is
maybe an FRP ring the same width as the partner would better replace the top
layer of glass and plywood beneath. Leave the lower section of glass and
bond to that. The FRP ring could probably come up off the deck about .5
inches allowing the lower mast boot clamp to go flush to the deck vs the
collar above the screws.
Mast wiring and loosening the rigging was all simple enough. The salon
table was quite the rubik’s cube though.

Mast step looks like it could stand to be replaced. Hoping it separates
from the stick with no issues.

Chuck

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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

Docking is theater for the marina…. don’t let everyone down with a boring
performance !

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Fri, Sep 23, 2011 at 8:59 PM, jamesminge wrote:

Many thanks John and Patrick for the advice, and for making me feel less
foolish for the “show” I put on at the dock the other day. Jim

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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

Here’s what I do… try to avoid backing up as a means of navigation….
when I have to do I hand pushturn the boat from the dock as much as
possible because she just plain don’t like to be steered in reverse.

We’ve gotten pretty good at warping the boat 180 degree on a side tie pier
or even t just 90 degrees before we head out.

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Fri, Sep 23, 2011 at 4:56 PM, jamesminge wrote:

I’m a new 424 owner, and recently had a devil of a time backing into a slip
facing north-south (stern was heading north), 10k east-southeast breeze.
what is the trick? i have a two blade folding prop. thanks, jim

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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

Or in my case the lead breaking off the sender after 30 years of vibration.
Luckily they are cheap.

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 10:54 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:

For what it is worth, although Stewart Warner seems to be a venerable
brand, I have never had much success with their products. Back when I raced
cars I had their gauges fail and replaced them with VDOs, and even VDO’s
most economy brand, the “cockpit” series were always utterly reliable and
seemingly accurate.

Also, for what it is worth, I am not a fan of mechanical gauges. There are
just too many opportunities for damage or failure. Another thing I saw when
racing cars was the blow out of oil pressure lines to mechanical gauges (or
their melting, kinking, etc) side-lining cars. IMHO electric senders are
the way to go.

One last thought: the simplest failure mode of an electronic gauge is the
wire coming off the sender due to snagging or vibration. I used to drill a
1/16″ hole through the female spade terminal on the wire to align with the
hole in the sender’s spade and run a piece of safety wire through that.
Never a failure after that.

Pete

On 9/22/2011 6:10 AM, Seawater wrote:

I may have found a whole console of newer gauges, but I am still looking
for the original tach and stewart warner water temperature gauge from my
1978 W 60. any help would be appreciated.

I’m trying to avoid any rewiring , but if no one has these gauges lying
around after their repower then I may just go new and replace the temp
gauge with a mechanical unit.

---

Walter
SV Madness
P424 Hull #1

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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

And the ruling is… It was the ground. I believe the old alternator had a case ground and the new one needed an external ground. I ran a 2/0 wire from the alternator to. The common negative bus on my batteries and then things worked, it also didn’t help that the fuse in the 12v monitoring wire was blown! Now things are working!

All we have left todo is ensure the coolant system is proper and we’re off…

Feels good to be looking for weather windows to head south again!

-p

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 19, 2011, at 10:43 AM, Patrick wrote:

Quote:

That was an improvement! The Balmar powered on and I saw lights, on the unit, not in my befuddled brain! 😉

All test were correct with the exception of the field wire.
I also heard some clicking from the instrument cluster and they seemed to be bouncing a bit so I think we’re still not correct…. Calling Balmar.

-P

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 19, 2011, at 9:43 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:

Quote:

For the sake of clarity here’s the solenoid I’m talking about:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6163298280/

I retraced my black wires on that solenoid the one on post #2 (from the right) goes to the glowplug strap.
The one on the fourth post goes to the alternator ground.

So that is the pre-heatglow plug solenoid.

Still doesn’t answer why my ground isn’t working… I’m going with my plan to take the ground on the regulator to the engine block directly.

-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Mon, Sep 19, 2011 at 9:01 AM, Patrick wrote:
My last little tests seem to indicate that ground is being controlled by the four pole soleoid on the port engine bulkhead above the engine, but I’m not positive of that yet. I think I can just wire the regulator ground to a proper ground instead of the alternator ground since bypassing that wire for ground gave me the proper test readings.

That will be today’s attempt.

Sent from my iPad

On 19, 2011, at 6:03AM, wrote:

Quote:

I would guess that your alternator wiring goes through a pressure switch on your engine. That way when you crank your engine the alternator provides no load to the starter. With a smart regulator, you don’t need this pressure switch since the regulator will phase the alternator up in stages. Bypass the fuel pressure switch.

Rich

---

Original Message

---

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

You might try just pulling the heat exchanger and taking it to a radiator shop to have it tested. If it test ok, have them wash it and paint it and you’ll be lie new. If it’s bad… You’ll know for sure.

-p

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 19, 2011, at 10:50 AM, Robert Fine wrote:

Thanks, Rich. That’s my second choice.

Bob

I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 19, 2011 12:36 PM, wrote:

I know that the W60 heat-exchanger can be rebuilt by the manufacturer,

Sendure. They might make the W58 exchanger also. Someone who’s had a rebuild
done might know. If you walk into a Westerbeke store and ask for a new one
hold onto your wallet.

Quote:

Rich

---

Original Message

---

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

That was an improvement! The Balmar powered on and I saw lights, on the unit, not in my befuddled brain! 😉

All test were correct with the exception of the field wire.
I also heard some clicking from the instrument cluster and they seemed to be bouncing a bit so I think we’re still not correct…. Calling Balmar.

-P

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 19, 2011, at 9:43 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:

Quote:

For the sake of clarity here’s the solenoid I’m talking about:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6163298280/

I retraced my black wires on that solenoid the one on post #2 (from the right) goes to the glowplug strap.
The one on the fourth post goes to the alternator ground.

So that is the pre-heatglow plug solenoid.

Still doesn’t answer why my ground isn’t working… I’m going with my plan to take the ground on the regulator to the engine block directly.

-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Mon, Sep 19, 2011 at 9:01 AM, Patrick wrote:
My last little tests seem to indicate that ground is being controlled by the four pole soleoid on the port engine bulkhead above the engine, but I’m not positive of that yet. I think I can just wire the regulator ground to a proper ground instead of the alternator ground since bypassing that wire for ground gave me the proper test readings.

That will be today’s attempt.

Sent from my iPad

On 19, 2011, at 6:03AM, wrote:

Quote:

I would guess that your alternator wiring goes through a pressure switch on your engine. That way when you crank your engine the alternator provides no load to the starter. With a smart regulator, you don’t need this pressure switch since the regulator will phase the alternator up in stages. Bypass the fuel pressure switch.

Rich

---

Original Message

---

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

For the sake of clarity here’s the solenoid I’m talking about:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6163298280/

I retraced my black wires on that solenoid the one on post #2 (from the
right) goes to the glowplug strap.
The one on the fourth post goes to the alternator ground.

So that is the pre-heatglow plug solenoid.

Still doesn’t answer why my ground isn’t working… I’m going with my plan
to take the ground on the regulator to the engine block directly.

-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Mon, Sep 19, 2011 at 9:01 AM, Patrick wrote:

My last little tests seem to indicate that ground is being controlled by
the four pole soleoid on the port engine bulkhead above the engine, but I’m
not positive of that yet. I think I can just wire the regulator ground to a
proper ground instead of the alternator ground since bypassing that wire for
ground gave me the proper test readings.

That will be today’s attempt.

Sent from my iPad

On 19, 2011, at 6:03AM, wrote:

I would guess that your alternator wiring goes through a pressure switch

on your engine. That way when you crank your engine the alternator provides
no load to the starter. With a smart regulator, you don’t need this
pressure switch since the regulator will phase the alternator up in stages.
Bypass the fuel pressure switch.

Quote:

Rich

---

Original Message

---

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

My last little tests seem to indicate that ground is being controlled by the four pole soleoid on the port engine bulkhead above the engine, but I’m not positive of that yet. I think I can just wire the regulator ground to a proper ground instead of the alternator ground since bypassing that wire for ground gave me the proper test readings.

That will be today’s attempt.

Sent from my iPad

On 19, 2011, at 6:03AM, wrote:

Quote:

I would guess that your alternator wiring goes through a pressure switch on your engine. That way when you crank your engine the alternator provides no load to the starter. With a smart regulator, you don’t need this pressure switch since the regulator will phase the alternator up in stages. Bypass the fuel pressure switch.

Rich

---

Original Message

---

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

OK.. I’ve had some beer and watched my Hawks lose which I am beginning to
think is a good thing so we can finally draft a QB.
Anyway, now that I’m relaxed and dug out my longer test wires I redid some
of my voltage tests. This time I ran the Ground (black) of the multimeter to
the Negative on the House bank and all the tests with the key on and off
were GOOD. When I use the black wire on the connection on the Balmar MC-614
as the ground the key on tests all FAIL.
Looks like we have a Ground issue, but I’m curious why it wouldn’t show in
both the Key On and Key Off tests…. more multimeter… this time directly
to the GND terminal on the alternator bypassing the black wire on the
Balmar. SAME FAILURES !! OK so we’ve got a ground problem.

Not sure what’s next, but i feel like some progress was made.

-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Sat, Sep 17, 2011 at 5:51 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:

Ok… I think the thing to do is wire it to the brown wire which was
wired to the old regulator.

In my wiring harness (w58) there is a three wire to four wire
connector. The main wires (engine side) are the orange oil pressure,
the yellow water temp, and a grey wire that goes to what I believe is
the fuel solenoid. On the other side of that connection is the brown
wire I mentioned and a black wire that goes to the switch in the
starboard lazarette which I am no longer calling the ignition switch
since all it seems to do is control the fuel pump.

Whew… Ok. I’m wiring it up that way and then going to proceed with
the bleeding of the fuel lines, which I had been holding off on for
fear of frying the regulator.

Wish me luck!

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 5:00 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

I see in my W58 owner’s manual that for engines with an external push
button start, the electrical system is enabled by the fuel pressure.
So j guess my idea about the way the wires should be is wrong.

-p

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:39 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

Correction: I have the MC 614…

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:23 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

Sorry for being such a pest today, it’s not going smoothly….

I thought I had the balmar mc-612 regulator wired up correctly, but in
doing the pretests with the voltmeter, I’m not getting the correct
results.

The expected results are as follows while checking the main wires
coming off the unit. I’m using Black wire as my – in the tests.

Ignition off
12+V on the red wire
0 on the brown ignition
0 on the field wire

Ignition on
12V on all wires

Ignition off is fine.
Ignition on is wrong.

I wired the brown ignition wire to the solenoid on the port engine
bulkhead to the terminal which was hot (12v) with the key on which is
pole #2 starting at the stern.

My red wire is hooked to the + terminal on the alternator.
Field to field.
Black to alternator ground.

I assume its the ign wire that is wrong, anyone who has done this

correctly?

Thanks!
-p

Sent from my iPhone

—
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

Yep, that’s the one! The labels on mine are illegible.

-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Sun, Sep 18, 2011 at 5:19 PM, Seawater wrote:

I have that drawing for the W60. In the lower right hand corner it is
labeled drawing # 15245.

Perhaps it is the same.

---

Walter
SV Madness
P424 Hull #1

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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

When I ran my test this morning I didn’t let the engine run very long at all. I would think if the wire fuel pump solenoid is driving that wire it would have been on at that point. If I’m wrong and it’s the oil pressure would it take longer to switch on?

-p

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 18, 2011, at 9:49 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:

Well, the engine started which is a good thing. The bad thing is I
still am not getting the correct voltages on the balmar. Back to the
drawing board, which means take the laptop to a bar with wifi and
watch the Seahawks.

If anyone has suggestions I’d love to hear them.

-p

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 5:52 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

Ok… I think the thing to do is wire it to the brown wire which was
wired to the old regulator.

In my wiring harness (w58) there is a three wire to four wire
connector. The main wires (engine side) are the orange oil pressure,
the yellow water temp, and a grey wire that goes to what I believe is
the fuel solenoid. On the other side of that connection is the brown
wire I mentioned and a black wire that goes to the switch in the
starboard lazarette which I am no longer calling the ignition switch
since all it seems to do is control the fuel pump.

Whew… Ok. I’m wiring it up that way and then going to proceed with
the bleeding of the fuel lines, which I had been holding off on for
fear of frying the regulator.

Wish me luck!

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 5:00 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

I see in my W58 owner’s manual that for engines with an external push
button start, the electrical system is enabled by the fuel pressure.
So j guess my idea about the way the wires should be is wrong.

-p

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:39 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

Correction: I have the MC 614…

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:23 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

Sorry for being such a pest today, it’s not going smoothly….

I thought I had the balmar mc-612 regulator wired up correctly, but in
doing the pretests with the voltmeter, I’m not getting the correct
results.

The expected results are as follows while checking the main wires
coming off the unit. I’m using Black wire as my – in the tests.

Ignition off
12+V on the red wire
0 on the brown ignition
0 on the field wire

Ignition on
12V on all wires

Ignition off is fine.
Ignition on is wrong.

I wired the brown ignition wire to the solenoid on the port engine
bulkhead to the terminal which was hot (12v) with the key on which is
pole #2 starting at the stern.

My red wire is hooked to the + terminal on the alternator.
Field to field.
Black to alternator ground.

I assume its the ign wire that is wrong, anyone who has done this correctly?

Thanks!
-p

Sent from my iPhone

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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Author]

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