[Hull152_Patrick]

Well, the engine started which is a good thing. The bad thing is I
still am not getting the correct voltages on the balmar. Back to the
drawing board, which means take the laptop to a bar with wifi and
watch the Seahawks.

If anyone has suggestions I’d love to hear them.

-p

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 5:52 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

Ok… I think the thing to do is wire it to the brown wire which was
wired to the old regulator.

In my wiring harness (w58) there is a three wire to four wire
connector. The main wires (engine side) are the orange oil pressure,
the yellow water temp, and a grey wire that goes to what I believe is
the fuel solenoid. On the other side of that connection is the brown
wire I mentioned and a black wire that goes to the switch in the
starboard lazarette which I am no longer calling the ignition switch
since all it seems to do is control the fuel pump.

Whew… Ok. I’m wiring it up that way and then going to proceed with
the bleeding of the fuel lines, which I had been holding off on for
fear of frying the regulator.

Wish me luck!

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 5:00 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

I see in my W58 owner’s manual that for engines with an external push
button start, the electrical system is enabled by the fuel pressure.
So j guess my idea about the way the wires should be is wrong.

-p

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:39 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

Correction: I have the MC 614…

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:23 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

Sorry for being such a pest today, it’s not going smoothly….

I thought I had the balmar mc-612 regulator wired up correctly, but in
doing the pretests with the voltmeter, I’m not getting the correct
results.

The expected results are as follows while checking the main wires
coming off the unit. I’m using Black wire as my – in the tests.

Ignition off
12+V on the red wire
0 on the brown ignition
0 on the field wire

Ignition on
12V on all wires

Ignition off is fine.
Ignition on is wrong.

I wired the brown ignition wire to the solenoid on the port engine
bulkhead to the terminal which was hot (12v) with the key on which is
pole #2 starting at the stern.

My red wire is hooked to the + terminal on the alternator.
Field to field.
Black to alternator ground.

I assume its the ign wire that is wrong, anyone who has done this correctly?

Thanks!
-p

Sent from my iPhone

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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

Ok… I think the thing to do is wire it to the brown wire which was
wired to the old regulator.

In my wiring harness (w58) there is a three wire to four wire
connector. The main wires (engine side) are the orange oil pressure,
the yellow water temp, and a grey wire that goes to what I believe is
the fuel solenoid. On the other side of that connection is the brown
wire I mentioned and a black wire that goes to the switch in the
starboard lazarette which I am no longer calling the ignition switch
since all it seems to do is control the fuel pump.

Whew… Ok. I’m wiring it up that way and then going to proceed with
the bleeding of the fuel lines, which I had been holding off on for
fear of frying the regulator.

Wish me luck!

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 5:00 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

I see in my W58 owner’s manual that for engines with an external push
button start, the electrical system is enabled by the fuel pressure.
So j guess my idea about the way the wires should be is wrong.

-p

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:39 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

Correction: I have the MC 614…

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:23 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

Sorry for being such a pest today, it’s not going smoothly….

I thought I had the balmar mc-612 regulator wired up correctly, but in
doing the pretests with the voltmeter, I’m not getting the correct
results.

The expected results are as follows while checking the main wires
coming off the unit. I’m using Black wire as my – in the tests.

Ignition off
12+V on the red wire
0 on the brown ignition
0 on the field wire

Ignition on
12V on all wires

Ignition off is fine.
Ignition on is wrong.

I wired the brown ignition wire to the solenoid on the port engine
bulkhead to the terminal which was hot (12v) with the key on which is
pole #2 starting at the stern.

My red wire is hooked to the + terminal on the alternator.
Field to field.
Black to alternator ground.

I assume its the ign wire that is wrong, anyone who has done this correctly?

Thanks!
-p

Sent from my iPhone

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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

I see in my W58 owner’s manual that for engines with an external push
button start, the electrical system is enabled by the fuel pressure.
So j guess my idea about the way the wires should be is wrong.

-p

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:39 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

Correction: I have the MC 614…

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:23 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

Sorry for being such a pest today, it’s not going smoothly….

I thought I had the balmar mc-612 regulator wired up correctly, but in
doing the pretests with the voltmeter, I’m not getting the correct
results.

The expected results are as follows while checking the main wires
coming off the unit. I’m using Black wire as my – in the tests.

Ignition off
12+V on the red wire
0 on the brown ignition
0 on the field wire

Ignition on
12V on all wires

Ignition off is fine.
Ignition on is wrong.

I wired the brown ignition wire to the solenoid on the port engine
bulkhead to the terminal which was hot (12v) with the key on which is
pole #2 starting at the stern.

My red wire is hooked to the + terminal on the alternator.
Field to field.
Black to alternator ground.

I assume its the ign wire that is wrong, anyone who has done this correctly?

Thanks!
-p

Sent from my iPhone

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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

Correction: I have the MC 614…

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:23 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

Sorry for being such a pest today, it’s not going smoothly….

I thought I had the balmar mc-612 regulator wired up correctly, but in
doing the pretests with the voltmeter, I’m not getting the correct
results.

The expected results are as follows while checking the main wires
coming off the unit. I’m using Black wire as my – in the tests.

Ignition off
12+V on the red wire
0 on the brown ignition
0 on the field wire

Ignition on
12V on all wires

Ignition off is fine.
Ignition on is wrong.

I wired the brown ignition wire to the solenoid on the port engine
bulkhead to the terminal which was hot (12v) with the key on which is
pole #2 starting at the stern.

My red wire is hooked to the + terminal on the alternator.
Field to field.
Black to alternator ground.

I assume its the ign wire that is wrong, anyone who has done this correctly?

Thanks!
-p

Sent from my iPhone

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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

Ok… We’re back on . That is indeed a switch. The temperature sender
is under the exhaust above the alternator wire is yellow.

Learning sooo much about the wiring. This can only be a good thing.

-p

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 1:15 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

Strike that… It’s a switch. Not sure which we need… Back to check
the wiring…

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 12:59 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

Strike that… It’s a switch. Not sure which we need… Back to check
the wiring…

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 12:59 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:

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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

On the shelf at Englund marine saving us a $20 cab ride!! Woo hoo!!

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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

I also run 180F

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2011, at 11:01 AM, Herbc wrote:

So I beg this ?, how hot does everyone run. My gauge shows 180 and sometimes goes under or over. The water is pretty cool up here and it seems to make a difference. I’m running a 20″ prop at 1800 rpms. normal cruise speed around 6.5 estimated.

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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

Whew…. In this town that would have been a Monday delivery.

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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

Bob, that was too obvious once you said to do that. duh! So now that this
mystery is settled my wiring is clear to me again… I think I’m getting
sick of being in the yard. Engine mounts I thought were ordered friday were
ordered today and were going to take 2 days to make and then 3 days to ship
to I bit the bullet and had everything shipped overnight. must get out of
Oregon!!!! 🙂 I think my new fuel tank was finished today though and they
got the rusted pipe from the engine to the exhaust elbow off. I already had
both a new pipe and a new exhaust elbow on-hand so that will be a nice
maintenance item to check off. The old one was basically held on by the heat
wrap. http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6137969725/in/photostream

For the sake of thinking out loud and hopefully of use to others I’ll
outline my plans to combine my two banks into one and then add a dedicated
1000CCA starting battery.

To combine the banks into one bigger one, from the battery in the upper left
:

– remove the positive (+) feed to the battery switch
– remove the positive (+) feed from the AC Charger
– remove the positive (+) feed from the combiner
– Wire the positive (+) on the first battery (top left) to the + on the
bottom right battery

That should give me a single 660 Amp Hour battery bank wired to position one
on the battery switch instead of 440 in Bank #1 and 220 in Bank #2. This
will make Bank #2 on the switch irrelevant but OFF will still be used.
NOTE: My starter is current fed off a positive bus on the positive feed from
the battery switch.

Adding a dedicated starting battery:

– Remove the connection from the starter to the House positive (+) Bus
– Wire the starting battery positive (+) to the starter
– Wire the positive (+) feed from the combiner to the positive (+) on the
starting battery
– Wire the negative (-) on the starting battery to the common ground by
wiring starting battery negative (-) to the negative (-) on the middle
battery in the bottom row.

Whew… that took a while to think through. I am definitely tired now!

Thanks a lot!
-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 6:46 PM, Robert Fine wrote:

I think the top left two batteries are one bank and the other four (top
right, bottom three) are the second bank. Which bank is which you’ll have
to check where the positives run to the switch.

Bob

On Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 9:36 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:

OK… this is still confusing …. and I’m beginning to think that the PO
may have wrongly wired this thing still.
New picture (a photo this time)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6142543902/sizes/l/in/photostream/

I believe the bottom left two batteries are supposed to be bank#2 and the
other 4 bank #1.
The AC Charger is wired to the Positive terminal of the top left battery
and
the bottom left battery which would make sense.

The Blue Sea BAttery Link ACR battery combiner is connected to the

positive

terminal of the top left battery and the postive temrinal of the bottom
right battery which seems wrong. It looks to me like its wired to the
positive terminal of the second set of batteries in bank #1…

My plan is to add a real starting battery and hook the combiner to it and
then wire all of these into one big house bank, but I don’t understand

what

I have yet so I can’t decide what to change..

Thanks a lot,
-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 9:52 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:

Sorry its taken me so long to reply. I’m in Neah Bay and we didn’t have
internet for a few days.

I looked it over and now what Skip said makes sense… Connecting the
grounds right there in the battery tray is what confused me.

We had abused them though… was low on water. Filled. Charged.

Equalized

and checked the water again. We’re good for now. Most likely we’ll

replace

the batteries, upsize the House bank in San Francisco and put in a

dedicated

seperate starting battery.

We have been stowing and organizing things better as we’ve been moving
along… there is a TON of room in this boat. We have a few practically
empty lockers. Today I took the hanging rod our of the salon locker and

was

able to fit our cooler in there!! We only have a small number of

hanging

things and they all fit in the v-berth so a huge gain there.

Thanks as always for the help everyone!
-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |

@DeepPlaya

On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 9:53 PM, skipmac

wrote:

Hi Patrick,

Looks like you have two banks, both of course 12V. The batteries are
wired in pairs in series to get the 12V but one series pair is

paralleled

together giving you have 4 batteries in one bank and 2 in the other.

If you look closely at the diagram all the grounds are wired together
which is correct. Then one positive goes to one pole on the battery
switch. Then two positives are wired together and then to the other

pole

on th battery switch.

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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

OK… this is still confusing …. and I’m beginning to think that the PO
may have wrongly wired this thing still.
New picture (a photo this time)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6142543902/sizes/l/in/photostream/

I believe the bottom left two batteries are supposed to be bank#2 and the
other 4 bank #1.
The AC Charger is wired to the Positive terminal of the top left battery and
the bottom left battery which would make sense.

The Blue Sea BAttery Link ACR battery combiner is connected to the positive
terminal of the top left battery and the postive temrinal of the bottom
right battery which seems wrong. It looks to me like its wired to the
positive terminal of the second set of batteries in bank #1…

My plan is to add a real starting battery and hook the combiner to it and
then wire all of these into one big house bank, but I don’t understand what
I have yet so I can’t decide what to change..

Thanks a lot,
-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 9:52 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:

Sorry its taken me so long to reply. I’m in Neah Bay and we didn’t have
internet for a few days.

I looked it over and now what Skip said makes sense… Connecting the
grounds right there in the battery tray is what confused me.

We had abused them though… was low on water. Filled. Charged. Equalized
and checked the water again. We’re good for now. Most likely we’ll replace
the batteries, upsize the House bank in San Francisco and put in a dedicated
seperate starting battery.

We have been stowing and organizing things better as we’ve been moving
along… there is a TON of room in this boat. We have a few practically
empty lockers. Today I took the hanging rod our of the salon locker and was
able to fit our cooler in there!! We only have a small number of hanging
things and they all fit in the v-berth so a huge gain there.

Thanks as always for the help everyone!
-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 9:53 PM, skipmac wrote:

Hi Patrick,

Looks like you have two banks, both of course 12V. The batteries are
wired in pairs in series to get the 12V but one series pair is paralleled
together giving you have 4 batteries in one bank and 2 in the other.

If you look closely at the diagram all the grounds are wired together
which is correct. Then one positive goes to one pole on the battery
switch. Then two positives are wired together and then to the other pole
on th battery switch.

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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

Hey Chuck,

do you happen to have the PN for the brake pads or know an equivalent replacement part.

Thanks,
-p

@Chuck Ruble wrote:

Pat, a standard pipe plug will cap the hole. 
 
I say keep it cause if you lose your folding prop for some reason and have to resort to a backup (Hal didn’t throw anything away, I still have the original Michigan Sailor) you’ll want to be able to lock the prop as the Velvet Drive ideally shouldn’t spin free when the engine isn’t running.  Sea Duty has a Maxx Prop as well as a working prop lock.
 
The spring could be found at Home Depot or Lowes.  The seal kit for the hydraulic unit is still available from the manufacturer of that component and the brake pads can be found also. 
If you need any information on parts I’ll dig them up.
 
It’s a really cool unit that is surprisingly well made.  I’ve got no springs on mine and it works without but rattles.
 
Chuck

Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

That is a good suggestion… I’m curious about those hoses with the bends in
them. I can see a PN for them in my manual, but of course they can’t be
found online. Are they a generic thing I should be able to find or replace
with an off the shelf hose?

I have a new exhaust elbow and the extension pipe to which it mounts (came
with the boat) and the old one is cracked. I’m going to have the yard get
that pipe off for me as I’m afraid I’ll break something. They need to heat
it up I’m sure.

Anyway, I just spent the morning cleaning up the engine as much as I could
(felt a bit like polishing a turd) and then put a can of engine paint on.
I’ll do another can this afternoon, after the Seahawks game. I’m not sure
how much I’m actually protecting anything, but the engine looks a lot
better.

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Sun, Sep 11, 2011 at 5:09 AM, Alan wrote:

Quote:

IMHO
While you have the beast out…. check the by-pass hose on the bottom the
thermostat housing. If it looks”original” I’d replace it now. It’s a b****h
to get at while the engine is in place.
alan

— On Sat, 9/10/11, Pete Dubler wrote:

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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

Nope, putting back the engine, just going to knock of the corrosion on the
bottom and spray on some engine paint.

-=p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya

On Sat, Sep 10, 2011 at 2:46 PM, kalinowski wrote:

Are you going to do a rebuild? Or plug in another power plant?

Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama (#135)
Ko Olina, O’ahu

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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Hull152_Patrick]

Yes, I wasn’t specific enough. I had to remove the elbow from the
draw, return lines, vent and had to cut off the nylon elbow for the
fill. The fuel draw is two pieces, and you can’t pull the ~2′ draw
tube until the tank is out, but you do need to remove the elbow.

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 9, 2011, at 7:20 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:

I recall having to remove the elbows on the top of the tank.

Pete

On 9/9/2011 10:13 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:

So I got the tank loose and I’m trying to decide the right next step as it’s
not sliding out due to the wires in the mizzen step and the engine pan, as
well as the Racor laterally. Those of you who slid it out, what all had to
be removed. I should mention I have removed the front of the box holding in
the tank and the angled ramp is what I’m riding on, not the flat section in
the front of the box, i.e., the tank has slid down several inches already.

Thanks,
– p

Taken by deepplaya http://www.flickr.com/photos/26558453@N03/6130015395

Sent from my iPhone

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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

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