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Welcome aboard!! I was new a couple of years ago and you’re going to love
the list and your P424.Cutter (sloop) comparison is on the P424 site:
https://www.pearson424.org/images/cutterketchcompare.gifBut very few 424s are exactly the same.
<https://www.pearson424.org/images/cutterketchcompare.gif>-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Jun 8, 2010 at 2:43 PM, Sailpower <> wrote:
Hi all Iām a new member and have owned a 1979 424 Ketch in the past and am
considering another. This time around I think that I prefer a sloop or a
cutter although not in-mast furling.My questions are:
Is the mast height on the sloop the same as the ketch or cutter? Or
something else?I know that the cutter mast is taller and moved farther aft. How would the
sloop compare to that?Boom length same on all?
Thanks.
Chris
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!My hull was built in 1981 #152.
I can see on the old step (the badly corroded one seen here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4099561969/) that the edges of the
step on the bottom were more correded where they seemed to allow water under
the step (no pic right now). My mast was corroded (see here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4618144918/ ) and we removed the
bottom 2 inches. Those two inches will be made up by an UHMW block under the
maststep.I am going to go the same route as s/v Jubilee.
-=p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Jun 8, 2010 at 9:06 AM, norris larson <>wrote:
Quote:Three years ago I replaced the main step with a cast, anodized aluminum one
from the company everyone hates to deal with. I simply removed the old,
corroded steel step and screwed in the new one with the same lag screws. I
didn’t notice what you observed. Maybe there is a problem with older 424s.
Easy Reach is hull #206, built in 1983.Norris Larson
0, Jubilee <> wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I used Trident hoses and AWAB hose clamps for all of my refit and have
been very happy working with them and the results on the first few
months. Go to their web site it tells you which hoses for which purpose.-p
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 1, 2010, at 14:38, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Looking to buy some new 1 1/2 in. hose from cockpit scuppers to thru
hull. Thought there was mention here in past of one or two hose
companies in FL that had a 424 affiliation. Anyone remember them?
Probably a wire reinforced would be best?Thanks.
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!The island time looks to me exactly like the uquiti bullet which you can buy
for $50-$80 online.
http://www.ubnt.com/bulletm
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, May 31, 2010 at 6:39 PM, Alan <> wrote:
Quote:Tor, got it right when he told you about my WiFi set up from IslandTimne
PC. The price is reasonable and I can generally get Wifi form 2- 3 miles
away.
This winter I was in Tobago Cay and was getting WiFi from Union Island 3.5
miles away. Of course if the signal is WEPed… then it’s all for naught….
YMMV
alan
UNABATED— On Mon, 5/31/10, James Roberts <> wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!There are a number of ways you can go. What I’m doing is as follows:
Ubiquiti Bullet 2 WiFi Bridge ($85) connected to a a Digital Antenna wifi
antenna ($90) mounted on the mizzen mast.
There is an ethernet cable (use direct burial cable) that runs up inside the
mast to the radio which mounts to the antenna. This cables powers and
handles the data traffic.
This connects to a Linksys WRT54G wireless access point and is my boats
wireless network, the Ubiquiti bridge is the “internet uplink” at home this
would be your DSL or cable modem.It’s still laying in the yard (almost done) but I ran it at the dock and it
worked great.You could mount it deck level or hoist it set it up temporarily as well.
Pics and details to be posted on my site when the rig is back up.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Sun, May 30, 2010 at 5:29 PM, Rodd Leeds <> wrote:
Trying to increase my range and reception for wifi. I am barely able to
get my cable company’s wifi signal at the dock (connecting at 11Mbps). It
was good enough to log on the web and to connect to my slingbox and watch tv
on the computer.Can anyone recommend an antenna or a system that would increase my range
and improve signal strength. Also, what type of an antenna is best and
where should it be mounted for maximum reception? Do these systems connect
directly to the laptop’s network card, or do they need to connect to a
router or Access Point?Thanks guys! The season is upon us here in the North East!!
Rodd Leeds
“Windseeker”
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!We ripped all that mess out and put in a composting head.
http://deepplaya.com/post/Installing-the-Composting-Head.aspxhttp://www.natureshead.net/marine.html
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, May 11, 2010 at 12:00 PM, kalinowski <>wrote:
Here’s another vote for the PH-II. It works great for us and rebuild kits
are even easy to get here in HI. I’m just wrestling with the accretion
build up in the line from the head to the tank as the PO never bothered to
treat it. I’ll be back on board in two weeks and am certainly “looking
forward” to replacing that hose.Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!What Bob said… that is exactly my plan as well!
If you can’t find the metal locally try http://www.onlinemetals.com
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, May 10, 2010 at 6:25 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
You can make them yourself with a bit of bar stock 3/4″ wide and 3/16″
thick
with a drill and tap. I think the screws are 1/4″ – 20. Like Tor said, it
should only take a day to do. I carry all the tools so for me it would
take
less. All the backing plate does is clamp the track to the internal track.I hope that helps.
Bob
On Mon, May 10, 2010 at 8:38 AM, Eric Lorentzon <>
wrote:I need to replace the t-rack on the mizzen mast that my boom rides on.
Anyone know who makes the inset that slides up the mast for mounting /
supporting the t-track?Mast are out now and splash is thisfriday!!!running
out of time and boat units –
Eric NavasanaKittery Maine_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!This place is 1:20 away from Fort Collins in Aurora.
http://straitlumber.com/products/lumber-plywood.php<http://straitlumber.com/products/lumber-plywood.php>They carry andor they
are a dealer for this brand of Marine Grade Plywood:
http://www.wolstenholme.com/prod05.htm<http://www.wolstenholme.com/prod05.htm>-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 7:02 PM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
I am in Fort Collins, Colorado. My boat is here for a several year
restoration. (It is a Blue Water Sailing project boat and you can follow
the project in their magazine starting this summer with an article on
trucking the boat out here).Pete
On 4/29/2010 7:04 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Use Marine grade plywood….
Pete, where do you live? I might be able to help you find it.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 5:18 PM, Pete Dubler<>
wrote:I need to buy some plywood to replace the big hole in the sole I made
glassing in the new fuel tank. The question is: what is this stuff?Is it CCA marine grade doug fir plywood or just CCA (non-marine) plywood,
or something else.What are people using these days? I can find CCA plywood (non-marine)
for
about $32/sheet and I can find marine grade, not CCA plywood for about
$97 a
sheet. In any case, I need about a 48 x 48 piece of the right stuff.
(the
CCA 3/4 marine ply sells at the coast for about $65/sheet, but I can’t
find
it here). I wonder if you can just put a shipping label on a 4′ square
piece and send it via UPS….Knowledge and ideas?
Thanks,
Pete
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Use Marine grade plywood….
Pete, where do you live? I might be able to help you find it.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 5:18 PM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
I need to buy some plywood to replace the big hole in the sole I made
glassing in the new fuel tank. The question is: what is this stuff?Is it CCA marine grade doug fir plywood or just CCA (non-marine) plywood,
or something else.What are people using these days? I can find CCA plywood (non-marine) for
about $32/sheet and I can find marine grade, not CCA plywood for about $97 a
sheet. In any case, I need about a 48 x 48 piece of the right stuff. (the
CCA 3/4 marine ply sells at the coast for about $65/sheet, but I can’t find
it here). I wonder if you can just put a shipping label on a 4′ square
piece and send it via UPS….Knowledge and ideas?
Thanks,
Pete
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Tor quit telling me better ideas AFTER I spent my money. š I told the
rigger when they dropped off my wire that we might be having a chat about
this backstay antenna down the road. If it doesn’t work as well as I expect
that might be a good route to go.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 2:45 PM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:When I re-rigged my boat, I replaced the original Y-backstay, which never
did make sense to me, with a split the backstay. So I’ve got two separate
wires running all the way to the masthead. Figured two’s better than one,
and it also moved them farther out of the step way between the cockpit and
the side decks. I put isolators in one of them.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Alan you are absolutely correct… NOT COAX…. š
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 2:39 PM, Alan <> wrote:
Quote:“This will be fed with COAX”
I think most experts will agree that the tuner to ant. connection should be
fed with GTO-15 High Tension wire. That wire can be bought at any neon sign
shop or any HAM radio outlet.
It should be kept as short as possible as it is included in the antenna
length calculations.alan
— On Wed, 4/28/10, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <>
wrote:<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I’d also like to see them scanned if there any cost to do so let me know and
I’ll help pay for it.-=p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 9:29 AM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
If you send them to me and I will scan them and then we can put them
online.Pete
On 4/28/2010 8:19 AM, pat noordsij wrote:
Part of moving is divesting of things no longer needed. I have all the
old pearson newsletters ( pre 2003 ) and information in a box. If anyone
wants these things, send me your address. I will forward them on to you.
This is a box – not so big – maybe 8 inch stack.If I don’t hear from anyone they are going to recycling
thanks
– pat
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I had the solenoid on my starter replaced and there was no discussion of
special grease.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 7:43 PM, Bill Emberley <>wrote:
Quote:Hello Pearson Owners,
I am replacing my intermittent starter solenoid. I removed the old one and
found the spring loaded piston had grease on it. Is there a special
solenoid grease?
Best,
BillSV “Running Tab”
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!When you checked the heat exchanger did you pull the end cap and look into
it? When I took my boat for it’s first test sail we overheated about 100yds
outside the breakwater. Heat Exchanger was gummed up.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 11:01 PM, james bartch <
wrote:
Aloha to All
My w-58 is still heating up even after i have checked the obvious, any
suggestions on what else i can check before i call in the machanic? new
impeller, changed the thermostat, cleared the lines and looked for impeller
pieces, have water flow out the discharge, cleaned the raw water strainer,
checked the heat exchanger as best i know how, checked the oil cooler-heat
exchanger and have no obvious external leaking.I can strart the engine run it for about 30 imnutes or so, under a load and
then it starts to creep over 180 and i shut it down as it nears 200 +/-any thing else that i can check? the engine runs smooth and does not appear
to have any coolant or oil coming out of the discharge, the oil is clear in
the engine, trans and v drive… coolant is clean.please help!
the engine is supposed to be a 1995 series w58, but not sure of that,
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!He’s just telling you that the Europeans who have traditionally combined the
AC DC grounds are now doing it the way the Americans have all along.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 6:47 PM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:Thanks, Rich. I know you know this stuff. For my part, I understood about
10% of what you said. Welcome to planet of the apes. I actually have that
SGC manual; it came with my SGC-230 tuner. It is written in Greek (or Geek,
which is much the same thing). You have to know to understand, and you have
to understand to know. Ketch 22 aboard this 424.My German neighbor in this Grenada anchorage is a professional marine
electrician and an obviously sharp guy. He’s the one who advised me to
separate the two ground systems. It makes at least as much sense as all the
other opinions I’ve heard, plus this guy is a pro and really seems to know
his stuff. He said all the high-end European yacht builders today are
separating the two grounds as a matter of course; that when our Pearsons
were built builders just didn’t understand the difference. On the other
hand, what you have in your boat is obviously working. You’d know by now if
you were melting zincs at an abnormal rate.I’m pretty sure the way I’ve grounded the tuner is correct. Connecting the
radio as I described seems adequate from what I’ve gathered, i.e., lots of
copper from the transceiver to bonding wire central, from which many more
copper cables go to bronze thru-hulls and thence directly into the sea. I
can’t imagine a more direct radio to ground connection short of draping a
4″
strap over the cap rail.Anyway, thanks for the feedback. I’ll let you know if what I’m doing works.
Tor
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http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
